Despite the forecasts of a wet middle of the day from multiple weather channels, the day turned out to be pretty good weatherwise and excellent from a cultural, historical and many other perspectives. After the usual catch up with the world (including the very distressing news about the lost Egyptair flight (scarily close to here), we headed to breakfast and over indulged in a very fine buffet (LOL – breakfast included here at the Palace Hotel).

As we ate breakfast we did notice some of our fellow travellers and that there was a much more non-Croatian group staying at this hotel than we have experienced before. And funnily enough, having previously contemplated how odd it is that once you notice someone in a restaurant or on the street for a particular reason, that it is amazing how often you will run into that person / people later in the day. This happened with a man and 2 ladies at breakfast when about 3 hours later we chanced to be walking along behind them going across a park. I remarked to JJ about this amazing phenomena and that apart from these people, several others at breakfast and Fran and Harry (ref yesterday) that she was the only other person I would recognise in Zagreb. Shortly after that we parted ways to explore different things, and about 10 minutes later I was walking along a main street…. And there was Fran coming towards me!!! Tell me, what are the chances of that?

All that aside and back to sightseeing…. Our first port of call after breakfast was to walk to Ban Jelacic (Governor of Croatia 1848 – 1859) Square, straight up the park from our hotel and a hub for people coming and going to the old and newer parts of the city. The square is named after Ban (Governor) Josip Jelacic Buzimski who did lots of great things for Croatia including abolishing serfdom and holding the first elections. See also a pic of the man on his horse - what a handsome man he was an like so many Croatian men with his delightful moustache and 'noble face'.

From there we went to the Dolac markets – in the centre of the area behind the main square, with lots of red umbrellas. The markets were very busy with lots of great looking produce and plenty of local looking people enjoying the contact with others and watching from the cafes. We joined in the latter past time and enjoyed our coffee (my 2nd and a bit more after a driving malfunction with the hotel coffee machine that saw me get 2 shots of coffee and one of milk when I put the first cup in the wrong spot).

Then we set out to find the shot tower (actually called the Lotrscak Tower – dating from 13th century and modified in the 19th century) from which a shot is fired from a cannon (pics of tower, funicular up to it (the shortest in the world) and the canon) at 12.00 noon each day and by which all the city churches can set their clock. This started in 1877 and though it was silent from the first world war until 1927, it has been firing ever since. Later in the day I climbed to the top (no mean feet for someone of my many years, though I guess after the lakes walk the other day it was just another Croatian challenge!) and enjoyed the great views.

After taking a short break from tourist stuff to charge my phone (what use is there in looking at stuff when no photos can be taken for later blogging references?), I slipped into the Zagreb Arts and Science Museum which houses the Strossmayer Gallery (across the road from the hotel), which was the recipient of a collection of works collected by the Bishop of Dakovo of the same name… and the gallery now holds works of European painters from 14th-19th century. Some of the subtle qualities of some of the paintings were of course totally lost on me but my mortality was challenged by standing looking at works of enormous age and many of which I thought were outstanding… others did nothing for me.

However, remarkably I was the only person enjoying this incredible collection in the whole floor of what was itself a magnificent building (several pics attached). Amid the bustle of a busy, modern city with so many links to the past, it was a wonderful opportunity to enjoy my iPod’s eclectic music collection and take in the details of the art work and the general atmosphere in the building.

From there I wandered the shops a bit enroute to the Zagreb Cathedral, a truly excellent and highly visible building (actually called the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary), and noted as ‘one of Zagreb’s defining symbols’. While it is largely a neo-gothic building dating from the late 18th century, its framework was established in 1094! The main cathedral sits among a host of other buildings – including the Renaissance Walls, the small St Stephen’s Chapel (no pic) and the gold Virgin Mary with Angels (no pics either – too glitzy for me).

What I did enjoy was that I chanced upon a museum to the side of the museum, dedicated to the memory of the former Archbishop of Zagreb Alojzije Stepinac. The nun (I have seen many nuns in Croatia and priests often wearing long ‘frocks’) who was in charge of the museum spent quite some time telling me about the Archbishop and the good work he did. He was pretty remarkable to ‘tending his flock’ and was ordained the youngest Archbishop (not sure how long his record stood) I the Catholic Church. Later in his tenure, during WW II he objected to the persecution of Jews and Nazi laws, helped Jews and others to escape from the area – but sadly was brought to trial in 1946 and given 16 years in prison with hard labour, including loss of civil rights for 5 years. Still he seems to have left behind a very positive reputation and a legacy embraced by some of those who follow. My guide gave me a copy of the speech he made in his defence at his trial, which is actually quite insightful into the times and his approach.

From there I wandered around the city, taking in sights and sounds – my pics reflect some of what I saw in general, but as I didn’t look at anything in detail (other than following each area’s special stories using a great guide book obtained from the info centre) I haven’t included any more details. My pics reflect some of this.  

JJ and I later followed some of the main streets before deciding on a restaurant for dinner. Notable is Radiceva, a long street absolutely full of bars and cafes, teaming with people. JJ is keen for a meal of mussels before we leave but that proved to be elusive, though some hope that tomorrow, being Friday, might be a possibility. I thoroughly enjoyed Squid Ink Risotto (have it if you can, it was great), accompanied by yet another bottle of Croatian wine.

Then time for a well-earned rest.