Well, today certainly turned out to be quite different to that predicted – mainly due to the weather (thank you whichever woman up there who takes care of the weather). The forecast for today in Zadar and to the west was for continuous rain and for a temp of mid-teens. So when we emerged 'from peaceful slumber' thanks to great messages from afar, it was to a soggy, miserable looking Zadar and the sea beyond. If only we knew that by early afternoon we would have sun!



But as I am sure you know, when travelling that you have to keep putting one step in front of another, or keep the (2 or 4) wheels turning if that is appropriate and after each taking / receiving lovely calls from home, we packed and prepared to depart our lovely Villa Jelena. At that point Jelena and her husband appeared and provided useful intelligence for our onward journey and waved good bye to send us on our way. They are a seriously lovely couple and if you ever make it to Zadar their apartment is highly recommended.

Bouyant at this stage because the rain had not arrived, we headed out of town and enjoyed the scene of the mountains to the east. On the way we made a short top to top up the Kuna (Croatian currency) in the wallet because, despite booking all of our accommodation on Booking.com with the security of my trusty (but recently new account number because of fraudulent activity) American Express card, our hosts want to be paid in cash – Euros or HKR (Croatian Kuna – which are 4-5 per AUD so a lot of notes are required).

Then off we set. We were sure that we knew where we were headed and our plan for the day – ie to reach Plitivka Jezera (Plitvicke National Park and the delightful lakes and waterfalls tomorrow) without time on the A1 tollway, but it was not so straightforward. All I am going to say is that because of a battle of wills with the determined Gertie Garman, there were a few detours. The major one was a very scenic tour around an enormous part of the Adriatic that looks like a lake but is called the Novigrad Sea. The town on the southern side in a narrow bay is called Novigrad and is a very charming town in the Mediterranean style, with some ancient fortifications crumbling on the cliff above the sea (see some pics). We saw quite a few Novigrad streets (some very narrow) and some back areas. Let me know if you want somewhere to go for some kayaking and fishing and I will fill you in.

After returning to what was possibly our intended route (but thoroughly enjoying the pretty countryside and the lake’s vistas in the meantime), we headed across an enormous bridge that linked up to the road northward along the cost. It is impossible to explain how amazing the landscape was and the beauty of the mirror-like sea across to the islands off-shore (I think we were looking at Pag most of the morning). I am now thinking that a return trip to Croatia to explore the multitude of islands that follow the coast, is in order. The islands seem to differ from one to another and warrant further exploration – certainly my research tells me that there is a lot to find out and experience.

I wasn’t surprised to see several groups of riders (not the pushbike type) heading the other way as we headed north, and when we stopped for lunch at Karlobag there were several groups sharing our restaurant (lucky ducks). After lunch we headed west and the steep climb up from the sea did not disappoint for absolutely fabulous views – looking across to the islands (see pics), then we dropped down into a much more lush treed rolling landscape that took us winding through more hills and the many, many villages dotted along the way.

Alison’s gearbox has certainly earnt its keep today and might have one or two scratches – the rolling hills, twisty roads and continually changing speed limit (60 in towns, some 40 turns, other 30 turns, some 90 between towns and some 70 between towns (go figure how this all works), certainly kept me guessing as the speed signs are not present and rely on the driver seeing the end of town sign and then when preparing to speed up, instead thenslowing down for the next town or corner!!!).

Still the countryside was fabulous, charming, changing etc (too hard to describe) and the signs / villages were interesting. I mentioned the other day that we saw signs for bears, wolves and deer – today we saw many signs for cows but have not seen a cow for the whole trip! Plenty of sheep.

So after many picture opportunity stops we finally reached Plitvika jezera – I know that many of you have been here and know what delights lie ahead for us tomorrow and those of you who haven’t been clearly should… but our accommodation is charming, sort of chalet / lodge style with plenty of wood paneling, a very friendly receptionist and great amenity – with the inside more modern than the outside indicates. Our single room is a bit of come down in space from last two nights in a 3 bedroom apartment with all mod cons, but it is very comfortable and no need to go hunting for a restaurant as it is all in-house. Thanks JJ for letting me sprawl across the big bed.

So we choose our dinner earlier and headed down at the appointed time (after catching up with some of the world (most of you are asleep) with great wifi (like the rest of Croatia) and enjoyed the fish dinner which followed fabulous homemade chicken soup (yum). More interesting than than the food was the lovey young couple at the next table who were interested in our wine (Rose) and after a sample and following our good example, ordered a bottle and were happy with the choice. They were an interesting couple – she Austrian and he Italian – met online wanting to each learn each other‘s language and have met up several times this year and are clearly keen on each other – just goes to show that distance (and language is not a barrier when it comes to relationships). We swapped travel stories and anecdotes, which was a good end to a delightful day.

Now all that is left to hope that the once promised weather forecast of 1 – 11 with rain for tomorrow does not arrive. Today, despite rain forecast, from lunchtime we had sunshine /cloud and by the time we arrived here were ready to strip the long-sleeved tops for t-shirts and as I write it is still balmy.

But its been another full day with plenty to stimulate all the senses and many emotions, and I am ready to head off to zzzzzz land to join most of you.