They say that all good things come to an end and so it was today with our terrific stay in Split. After achieving a miracle and getting all of my stuff back into my bag and getting it and my carry on down the 3 flights of stairs, the across the waterfront to the car park, we set off to conquer more of Croatia.

Unfortunately, the weather decided to match our reluctance to leave behind this stimulating and very very interesting city, and just as we got around the corner to the square, the heavens opened and didn't fully let up until after 2.00pm (as per the forecast – thank you Yahoo). So with wet bits and pieces we paid the fee to get our car out of the (apparently) cheapest car park in town and headed out in the rain.

While we had intended to head up the coast, we found ourselves on the tollway that runs from south Croatia through to Zagreb (the A1), which is the same one that our Alison Astra struggled to reach 130 kmph on unless it was a sharp down hill slope, the other day. At least she is consistent and today continued to increase my frustration by never having any more grunt in the right gear, at speed. So by slipping her down continually as the incline went up, we sort of kept up with the speed limit – which is not what the traffic do at all – most cars are usually doing at least 20kmph over the speed limit, especially when there is a requirement to slow to 100kph in tunnels (which are often, so it is very annoying), and I am the only one doing under 120!

So regardless of Alison’s gruntlessness, we headed up the A1 for a bit and made our way off at the Sibinek exit, heading for the town to see its UNESCO listed historic St James Cathedral and the town in general. But before making it to the town we stopped into a petrol station for a pit stop, and when I noticed it had a café at the side, we made it a coffee stop. I headed into the café and couldn’t help thinking of the wild west saloons as I entered the café as it was clearly the men’s local meeting point and it was ½ full of men (the only female was the girl behind the counter / bar) at about 11.30 am, the air was thick with smoke and there was a slight pause in the conversation as I took a tentative step in (and smiled internally as well as externally). However, in the absence of gunslingers there was a friendly waitress, my coffee was fine (JJs order was a bit more complicated – large black coffee + cold milk on the side – not a menu item), and we waited for the torrential rain to ease before heading out (right hand driving is going OK, right hand gear stick still challenging and the steep and slippery slopes in the heavy rain made my brain want a rest from one thing or the other).

Eventually we made or way into Sibinek and through the rain (it was heavier by then) we trudged to the old part of town and started off in the City Museum. Over the past few days we have seen some average and some less-than-average museums and were pleasantly pleased that this one (same prices as those above) was fabulous. A couple of pics are attached to show how well done it was, with an impressive collection going back to Neolithic times and tracing the history of the region right through to the past few hundred years. Given that all of the exhibits were described in Croatian and English, and there were quite a few electronic bits to add to the exhibition (touch screens and some short videos – one depicting a bloody battle to take over the castle, and another on the plague) our time there was well spent and very very interesting.

From there we went around the main square (some pics attached) to see the Cathedral of St James. Various bits of it are considered to be outstanding, with the baptistery (pic of roof, which covered a very impressive, huge font) noted as the 'pearl of the Croatian sacral art’, dating from the 1440’s. the rest of the inside was a bit disappointing – I acknowledge that it is old but as it was gloomy (rain I guess) and 1/3 of it was covered with scaffolding and is under renovation, there was not as much to see as perhaps there might have been. I did note though reference to ‘the main alter of the "Gospa od placa" (The Sighing Lady) from 1640 with the miraculous painting of the Mother of God from the 15th Century’ – and miracles aside it was pretty glum, although I am not a well-educated art critic.

Then on to explore the old city a bit, but in the steady rain we were mindful of slippery stairs and after a quick look around took advantage of a nearby restaurant for a bowl of hot soup for lunch.

Then we made our way out of Sibenek (no thanks to Gertie the GPS) via some very windy (ie curvy) and narrow streets – clearly by mistake, which tested my driving skills. A brief moment in reverse due to flustration, when forward was the required mode fortunately resulted in a lucky escape and we were on our way, buoyed by seeing blue sky in the distance (the 2.00 pm sunshine forecast was for Zadar and we were creeping up on it.

We had planned on then visiting the Krka National Park where there are some impressive waterfalls, but the weather saw us reverse that decision and head on.

Our next stop was to check in on Vransko Jezero (Lake Vrano), the largest lake in Croatia. Signposts were not very forthcoming so we sort of chanced upon a road to take us to the lake – which is huge, and a raised platform made it easy to walk around part off (see pic) and enjoy the bird life.

Then on the road and a quick left turn / sudden decision by the driver, took us into Sveti Filip i Jakov, a charming seaside town, just as the sun came out. Thus the o’clock was declared as ice-cream time (which is basically 24x7 for me but not everyone I understand J ) and we enjoyed sitting on the stone pier, taking in the sun then taking a short walk along the waterfront to check out the buildings, boats and gardens. As summer is just around the corner things are clearly getting ready for a bustling summer season – particularly the collections of very large boats we saw further along.

Next stop, Zadar. The road from Sveti Filip went through a series of small towns before taking us through what appeared to be Zadar’s industrial side, and then to the area where our apartment is located – up the hill directly behind the touristy new town and about 15 minute walk to the old town. Our hosts at Vila Jelana (Jelana and her husband) made us feel very welcome and gave the ‘intro to Zadar 101 alk and left us to settle into our 3-bedroom apartment which is FABULOUS… and yes, a spare room – you could have come too! Seriously, this is a beautiful apartment (pics of the view out over the balcony and 2 of the bedrooms) and we quickly cluttered it with all our stuff, got onto the wifi (which is everywere in Croatia) and settled into a pre-dinner drink.

Dinner was about 200 m down the hill in a local restaurant where we enjoyed Vienna schnitzel which came not only with chips and a mushroom sauce, but a huge pile of chips, a plate of salad and bread, all for a very modest price. And the wine / beer was cheap.

Then up the hill and finish blogging before bed.

Night.