We arrived in Victor Harbour on Friday evening after a long old drive from Portland (which is a sign of things to come while we are in South Australia) and yesterday we set about cramming as much into the day as possible.

We started the day with the now obligatory crazy golf around the eighteen harbour-inspired holes by the waterfront where we battled with whales, dodged pelicans and out manoeuvred sharks with our little blue and pink balls. After this gentle warm up to the day we headed out across the causeway to Granite Island for a walk along the Kaiki Trail that loops around the island.

There were several lookouts long the way, each offering different views either back across to the small town of Victor Harbour or the surrounding bay, or out across the ocean towards seal rocks and beyond. Despite much searching from all the way around the island we still hadn't managed to spot any whales so our next stop was greeted with much anticipation as we boarded a small boat for a whale watching tour to see if we could spot any of the whales that often frequent these waters during the winter months.

However, it turned out to be more of a whale 'searching' tour as we returned a couple of later feeling a little sea-sick and also a little disappointed in the lack of whale spotting. At one point in the tour our captain told us that there some whales had been spotted a couple of hundred metres off the shoreline, but he couldn't get the boat in that shallow so all we saw was the occasional puff of water from a blowhole. But from that distance it might just as well have been a couple of people snorkelling throwing water into the air! In order to make up for this our captain seemed to think that everyone would like not one, but two trips to seal rocks to see some birds and a few seals lounging about on some stones!

When we had got back to dry land again we headed back across the causeway to have a look around the town and to get a comfort pastry to cheer our spirits. The town of Victor Harbour is a nice little seaside place with a few shops that we poked our heads into before heading back to the campsite to wrap up warm for the evening's activities.

Once we had made our way back into town we stepped aboard a single carriage tram that was drawn by a huge Clydesdale horse, which would take us back to Granite Island. There are ten horses that operate the trams with three on each day so that each horse only works a couple of shifts during the week and they spend the rest of their time enjoying the freedom of several acres of land. As the horse pulled away, the tram began to move across the wooden causeway with surprising ease and it wasn't long before we were over the other side and waiting for our guide to show us the fairy penguins that inhabit the island.

As we followed our guide around the boardwalk the only lights were the occasional orange lamps along the side and the orange torch that our guide carried as white light can blind the penguins. Because of this we weren't allowed to use our camera flashes either, which would have been fine if the guide could have kept her torch still but every time she looked away from a penguin to give us some information about them, her arm followed her head and she would light up some rock to the side of the penguins. As a result we managed a couple of photographs of some penguins in a red light and many more photographs of what can only be described as 'black'!

We did get to see quite a few of the little b*****s running around though and by the time we were back on the tram we were a lot more satisfied than our earlier tour of nature and decided to celebrate with a taste of the local beer and a few games of pool.

This morning we woke up feeling a little groggy but still managed to get ourselves packed up and ready to go in time for a quick stop in town to check out the whale report for the day. When we got to the information centre we were told that a couple of Southern Right Whales had been seen heading around the back of Granite Island, so once again we set off across the causeway in search of these illusive creatures. Apparently they got their name because they were found in the south and when they were killed by the whalers they floated to the surface and produced a good amount of oil and blubber, hence they were the 'right' whales to hunt. However, it wasn't until we were heading back after an unsuccessful scout around the island that we spotted them lying just on the surface of the water about two hundred metres out from where we had parked the car!

They didn't actually do much but we still spent a little while watching them doing nothing before Jen could finally be dragged away back to the car so that we could begin our journey to Adelaide.