While in SaPa we hatched a plan. Realising that our return sleeper train was to arrive in Hanoi just before 5am and that we'd thus have a full day we decided to fill it with a trip to Halong Bay. The train journey was OK except that VIP service seemed to consist of one extra beer on the table and I guess something was loose on the rolling stock because every 30 seconds or so (throughout the night) there was a sound like a drum being beaten very loudly. Got to ...

The train journey was ok - the sleeping arrangements a bit primitive and washing facilities non existent - but we survived it. However, a low point was an abrupt knock on the door just before 5 & instruction to disembark immediately as we had arrived! Pulled on some random clothes & stuffed the rest into the rucksack and stumbled on to the platform. Stood for half an hour in a car park waiting for another couple, while stirring (and no doubt improving)...

Arrived Hanoi late in evening after 90 min flight plus more than an hour in car, the driver of which struggled to find our hotel in the Old Quarter. This was the closest we have got to sense of humour failure but all was restored by ginger tea in the fantastic 'boutique' Essence hotel. After a good night's sleep and breakfast (food, drinks and sleep feature highly in maintaining our sense of well being!) we walked the streets and spent a great day at the Vietn...

Joined the locals on the reunification train from Danang to Hue and rumbled along the scenic route for a couple of hours hugging the coast most of the way. Soft seat and aircon was good decision and total cost was equiv £5! Sleeping and eating were the passengers' main activities but being tourists we were mesmerised by the views, inside and outside the carriage! Only 24 hours here but have experienced backpacker cafe and street market seafood - stark comparison...

Well not quite dawn but it felt like it! Joined the training class for the staff, most of whom seemed to have more natural ability than me, and one of the young men took it upon himself to show me the correct positions even though it was his first lesson! The beach was full of local people exercising, playing football, swimming, running even when the rain came. Hoi An seems very chilled especially in contrast to the frenetic activity of rats, roaches and Russia...