We left Phnom Penh by bus and headed North West to Battambang. The plan was to get to Angkor to see the famous temples. For months we had been meeting travellers who had been there recounting amazing experiences. We took a motorbike tour in Battambang to see a temple even older than Angkor. It was a great afternoon on dusty roads both of us riding pillion on the same bike. The temple was old and in a poor state, high on a hill which had suffered heavy cannon fire during the civil war. The reminders are everywhere. The next day we took a boat trip to Siem Riep along the river. We were told it would take 4 hours but we are getting used to the "lies." It took 7. It was a bit of a shock when we saw the boat. It was crap. We had to climb in through the front window to get in. It was overcrowded, no chickens at first, but sure enough they arrived with various other produce along the way. There were 3 mothers breast feeding at various times. Always one on the go. No toilets, just the river. It was a little worrying. It was a painful 7 hours but I have to say one of the best experiences of our whole year. The life we saw on the river that day was beyond comprehension. Families living on such small boats with only a few pots and pans and some fishing gear. What do 3 kids do all day on a boat only 10 ft long? They have nothing and nowhere to go. Angkor did not disappoint. Like the Great wall of China, it lives up to its reputation. We spent 3 days touring in a Tuk Tuk seeing the best temples. We watches the stone change colour as the sun set at Angkor Wat. The Bayon we visited in the rain with only a few people around. Stone faces watch you from every angle as you walk around. You cannot visit all the temples, there are just too many. The last one we saw had been deliberately left to the jungle, so you got an idea of what these sites were like when they were first "discovered' after centuries of abandonment. Returning to Phnom Penh enabled us to head south to the coast at Sihanoukville, Cambodia's supposed leading beach resort. HMMMMMM! It has not really happened and falling by the wayside at the same time. It felt sad. We hired a motorbike and headed up the coast to empty beaches and pure paradise. A great place to rest and prepare for the battle ahead..............crossing the border to Thailand. It was another boat trip. This time along the coast. It stank of vomit and went very fast. But at least it had a door to get on board. We arrived at Krong Koh Kong a small town 8 miles from the border. Here the locals await to capture you and "take" you to the border by motorbike taxi. We were a little man handled (bordering on violence) as we made the 100m to a hotel for the night. We crossed the next day when most of the natives were not watching. Janet's motorbike taxi ran out of petrol on the 8 mile trip which says a lot about how the Cambodian people are living hand to mouth. They do not have the money to plan ahead.