I started the day off with the buffet in the cafeteria, which turned out to be one of the best breakfasts I've had on the trip so far. There was an organ concert at St. Jakob's Church at 10:40 am, so Rob and I headed up there around 10:00 and checked out the incredible 500-year-old hand-carved alterpiece before taking a seat. The concert lasted about 20 minutes and it was amazing to hear the music echoing through the halls of the church. From there, we headed to Käthe Wohlfahrt, where it's Christmas all year round. Stepping inside is like entering a little village filled with sparkling lights, frosted trees and baskets overflowing with every kind of ornament and decoration imaginable. We explored every inch of the store with childlike wonder before it was finally time to move on. Our next stop was a huge transition from the cheerfulness of Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg's Criminal Museum. The next hour took us through 4 stories of torture devices, desecration masks and exhibits on medieval law and justice. One of the most severe punishments was for bakers who made bread too big or too small! The smaller offenses (like being a bad musician or a woman who gossips too much!) led to public humiliations, where the accused was chained to a post for a couple hours or required to wear a shame mask with bells on it that alerted everyone in the area they were approaching. After this interesting history lesson, we stretched our legs a bit by hiking down into Tauber Valley outside the city walls. We visited Topplerschlösschen (Toppler's Little Castle), that was built in 1388 for mayor Toppler, which turned out to be more of a tree fort than a castle. As soon as we got down into the valley it began to rain so we made it a brief visit before heading back into town. We grabbed a light lunch at a little Italian restaurant and then crashed back at the hostel for a couple hours. Feeling a bit more energetic after a nap, we walked atop the city wall back into the town center, peering out through the arrow slits and snapping pictures like Asian tourists. We stumbled upon an ice cream store that had a plaque proudly stating "Recommended by Rick Steves" so we grabbed a cone and made our way to the main square. We decided to join the night watchman's tour and apparently so did everyone else in Rothenburg. For the next hour, the "night watchman" toured us and over 100 other tourists around, telling us all about the town's history from the medieval times until now. The guide was hilarious and it was easily the best walking tour I've been on. Afterwards, Rob and I walked the city wall back to the hostel, the rocks stained an eerie blood red by the setting sun. Tomorrow I'm leaving for Frankfurt but I'm going to miss little Rothenburg. It won me over the moment I stepped onto it's cobblestone streets and I'm sure someday I'll return to be charmed once again.