Mon

Long drive to El Calafate. Short of finding a helicopter there is not much option. Majestic scenery with the occasional isolated tiny houses. One wonders how people cope in such places. No popping down the shop for a loaf! El Calfate is a nice town. Bit of a Swiss feel to it with loads of wooden chalet type buildings. Found a super restaurant for dinner. They have a fire in a pit that you can see through the window. Then around the sides of the fire are whole lambs that are cooking away for hours. The smell is wonderful so that was it, we ventured no further.

Tues

This morning drove to Perito Moreno glacier. The glacier is 40 meters high and has a front span of 5 kms. It is an incredible sight. The day was fine and sunny if a bit windy. The sun shone on the ice and turned it an incredible blue. The top that we viewed from platforms was just like a meringue, all peaks and troughs, it was amazing. Whilst we watched a large chunk of the glacier fell into the lake. The boat that was viewing the front beat a hasty retreat as it sets up a bit of a tidal wave. Quite magical to watch but sad to watch as it will have taken hundred of years for that ice to get to the front of the glacier then in two minutes it is broken into thousands of bits of ice and in the lake. Just watching the ice, the changes of colour, the loud cracks like gun shots was awe inspiring. We had a boat trip out to the face as well. Nature is quite awesome.

Wed

Left at 0915 to Puerto Natales. A town that has a decaying feel about it and is very bleak. Walked along the front where the quay used to be. Lots of boats abandoned on their sides or beached. The fishing that used to take place now appears to be at and end and the town reflects that. However, back to food again. Found an absolutely fabulous restaurant Índigo´for dinner. Had succulent salmon with a honey sort of dressing on a bed of crispy veg and a curry foam sauce. Then a Chilean fruit flan. Couple of glasses of wine, a Baileys, coffee - what more do I need?

Thurs

Early start toTorres del Paine National Park. The Torres del Paine (Towers) stand vertically more than 2000mtrs above the Patagonian Steppe. They dominate the landscape of what is probably the best National Park so far. Turquoise lakes, roaring creeks, rivers, waterfalls, glaciers, dense forest and abundant wildlife. Quite special. Got dropped off in Park then started walk to view Towers. Described as an eight hour walk that was only supposed to be up hill for abour 45 minutes then flatten out - don´t believe the guide books. After still walking uphill on a very steep incline myself and four other ladies stopped at the firest Refugo (coffee hut)., had a coffee and did a smart about turn and came back down. On the way down we saw Condors flying overhead, they are magical. Suprisingly down hill was worse than going up because of a lot of loose scree. Anyway got back down to the hotel at the bottom and waited for the others most of whom made it. However most were exhausted even the fit young ones so I didn´t feel too bad that I did not make it. Camping at site in park. Good fun whilst the weather is fine except during the night my mattress went down and I spent from 0200 am effectively lying on the ground - someone remind me why I like the occasional five star.......

Fri

Went on tour of park off the beaten track if that is possible and saw waterfalls, flamingoes, foxes (grey and red), mother and baby guannacas, rheas and wonderful wild horses. We also saw a Condor sheltering on a rock as it had rained in the morning. When it rains their feathers get too heavy for them to fly apparently so they rest up for a bit. Try as we might we could not persuade him to take off but at least we saw him. Another good day.

Sat

Went riding over the mountains for a couple of hours. It was magical. My horse, called Puma, had his own ideas about what route to take but after a bit of a chat he decided to go where I wanted him to and we got on fine. We had an escort of a posse of wild horses that decided to come with us. Had a couple of good gallops across the hugh paddocks and went up into the mountains. Great fun.

Sun

Drove to Puenta Arenas. Stayed at Hotel Savoy. But not the posh one in London. However it was a good hotel and not a bad place to overnight.

Mon.

Drove to Magellan Straits and caught ferry to Tierra del Fuego. Very smooth crossing which apparently is quite rare. Arrived in Rio Grande about five. Rio Grande is where the Argentinians spearheaded their Falklands campaigns. They have memorials up everywhere together with outlines of the Falkland Islands saying they are theirs. There is a huge navy base that we walked around. Had dinner in hotel and watched a Tango Show. It was great and the guitars were superb.

Tues

Drive to Ushiaia. Arrived at 1 00 pm. Had an afternoon boat trip around the Beagle Channel. It was quite spectacular if freesing cold. Saw sea lions, seals playing in the water, giant commerants and we thank, an albatross. Another magical day.

Wed

Took mountain train up to National Park. The most southerly train in the world. Good fun. For our final night we all went to the Ushiaia Rugby Club for the best meal I have had since I have been here - well, almost! On entering the club we were greeted by chefs in tall white hats and white overalls. They indicated steaks in a cooler on one side and asked us to choose which we wanted., They then cooked it as we wanted on a wonderful open fire. We then had a choice of salads, jacket potates, chips etc., bread and this was all washed down with a couple of three glasses of red wine. And all for about the equivalent of six pounds. I will be back again, I hope. A good last night before I leave for Peru on Friday.

Chile and Argentina have exceeded my expectations. I came here with some trepidation but it was unfounded. The people are fantastic and very kind. More people spoke English than I thought would do so and I will be sorry to leave. It´s been a magical three weeks. (Apart from leaving the legions of dogs that seem to materialise whenever you go out and walk for miles with you in the vain hope that you are going to feed them....)