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Our time at El Questro's Emma Gorge was a mixed experience. For this blog I will reflect on the natural environment of El Questro then the facilities provided by the complex.
El Questro is a one million acre tourist resort located in the Cockburn Ranges in the heart of the Kimberleys. It is made up of three different locations; Emma Gorge (located near Emma Gorge and consisting of upmarket camping cabins), The Station (consisting of cabins and camping facilities), and the Homestead (exclusive accomodation for the rich and famous or those wishing to indulge in an expensive upmarket retreat), both located on the Pentacost river. These three resorts however are located at different corners of the property. Emma Gorge being 30 kms by road to The Station and 100 kms from the nearest town of Kununnurra.
On El Questro are a number of walking tracks leading to gorges, waterfalls, lookouts and springs located over the enter property. Also are included airstrips and helipads that allow planes and helicopters to operate tours to neighbouring tourist destinations around the Kimberleys. Along the Chamberlain Gorge there operates a cruise that takes tourist for a leisurely trip into what would be inaccessible country. The small township of El Questro and Emma Gorge retreat provide limited supplies and restaurants to service those who stay in their accomodation.
Tim and I were picked up from our lodgings at Discovery Caravan Park and taken to the gorge by Michael. The trip to Emma was a very scenic easy 100 km, mostly on bitumen with the rest on a well graded Gibb River Road with a couple of easy river crossings. The Gibb River road at the southern end had not yet opened to traffic because of a long wet season and closure at the Pentacost River. El Questro was the first tourist resort to open in the Kimberleys.The countryside was very green which contrasted with the vivid reds and clear blue sky. After just over an hour we arrived at Emma Gorge resort, set among a lush green landscape along Emma Creek. A beautiful wooden restaurant with an open eating area was the hub of any acitivity that took place.
Tim and I stayed 3 nights at Emma Gorge in their upmarket tented cabins. These cabins were located approximately 500 metres from the restaurant on a loose gravel track some distance from the creek. They were tucked in the bush, high off the ground with a small verandah. Each cabin had its own ensuite and toilet. We had a comfortable queen size bed and fan. Unfortunately the fridge with coffee and tea making facilities, promised by the El Questro Melbourne office
did not exist. This meant that whenever we wanted a drink of any sort there was a long 500 metre walk to the restaurant. Also the food that we brought with us could not be kept cold. Otherwise the cabins were comfortable and quite roomy and comfortable.
Following our lunchtime arrival we decided to take the trek to Emma Falls 1.6km upstream. The photos of Emma Gorge and falls with the pool below were very enticing. I was determined to make the "Blue" coded medium level walk. I recently completed a walk to Kondillilla Falls near Maleny with no trouble at all and it was much further. I thought this walk I would find challenging but do easily.
On entry to the falls is a sign that states "this walk varies from rugged, to challenging and difficult". I found this a curious statement and one I didn't quite know how to interpret. Returning from the walk were an elderly couple who delightedly said to us it was well worth the effort. How hard then could it be?
What can I say! The sign stated just how it was. The first 100 metres was a bit boggy; flat with a few stepping stones to entice you on a little further. Then it turned into a path made of medium loose stones for another 100 metres with a slight rise. Gradually the next 200 metres progressed to larger stones and bolders, loose and slippery with no clear path. Blue arrows here and there guided you along the correct route. At about the 450 metre mark the track disappeared and seemed to either go through a deeper section of the creek or over and around huge bolders. We chose the bolders.
Slowly step by step on hands, knees and butt I literally crawled over the next 250 metres of track thinking "is this the rugged, challenging or difficult part?". At this point I wondered what lay ahead with both of us only at the half way point. Fortunately we encountered some returning "trekkers" who assured us that we had been around the worst of it except for the last 50 metres to the falls. So we continued onwards; albeit slowly and with difficulty.
Emma falls and the walk up the gorge was definately worth the effort. The cystal clear deep water pool at the base of the falls was beautiful beyond belief. In parts it was fed by hot thermal springs which made for layers of water at different temperatures. The craggy red rocks surrounding the gorge and falls contrasted magnificently with the clear blue sky and the trees cast lovely shadows over the rocks. I have some beautiful photos that don't quite do the beauty of the area justice however will be a clear reminder of the magic of the place. On our return to camp we were told this walk was the easiest of the El Questro walks. At that point we decided to use alternative transport to see more of the property.
On the following days to see some more of El Questro we joined a 4WD tour that took us to Zebedee Springs; thermal pools surrounded by a grotto of Livingstonia Palms located close to El Questro Station. This area was magic. It was an easy 500 metre walk from the 4WD entry; not too taxing and the 32 degree water certainly soothed the aching muscles from the day before. As we were on a tour we were limited in the time we spent at this location as the tour included a beef and reef luchion at El Questro station. Unfortunately we left behind this lovely place too quickly but we were very hungry so the forthcoming dinner was persuasive.
The Station is the hub of all activity at El Questro. We had a wonderful lunch provided at the station restaurant. It is located on the banks of the Pentecost River and has a lovely deep swimming hole nearby. There are cabins that border the river and have the same beautiful view of this crystal clear waterway. Helen, another member of the tour showed me through her cabin. These were definately the best place to stay if I ever came again. They were recently built and provided a fridge and tea and coffee making facilities; totally necessary to store food rather than buy super expensive meals from the restaurant or store.
After lunch our 4WD showed us the devastating storm damage suffered at El Questro; mainly along the Chamberlain Gorge and to the Homestead itself. The flooded river gouged its way down the gorge taking 1000 year old Boab trees in its wake, destroying the resort infrastructure of roads and jettys and severely damaging one corner of the Homestead. Fortunately a boab tree logged under the overhanging Chamberlain room of the Homestead, stopping it from slipping into the river. The damage to this tourist resort will take a long time to repair.
To end the tour we wound our way up one of the 4WD trails to watch the sunset from Sugerbag lookout. This was worth the stress of going over the river crossings and up the steep winding roads. The view was magnificant and the sunset didn't disappoint. Buddy, an old Aboriginal stockman, gave us a history lesson about the creation of El Questro resort and the general history of this area of the Kimberleys. We toasted the end of the day with a bottle of bubbly and a fruit platter. I closed my eyes as I headed down the steeper parts of the track on the return journey. The tour was well worth getting a feel for living in the back of beyond.
These were the highlights to going to El Questro. The lowlights were the incredibly expensive costs involved in accomodation, transfers and inability to provide for ourselves. Emma Gorge caters for bus tours and does not cater well for the independent traveller. We often found ourselves neglected and being served after a bus load of tourists which saw us receive some very poor quality meals at exhorbitant prices. During the 3 days there it was almost impossible to get boiling water to make a cup of tea. Something my dad would never have tolerated! Also tour groups get special deals over the independent traveller. We would have been much better taking a day trip to El Questro from Kununurra to do all the things we did; by doing this we would have saved ourselves well over $300. A day trip from Kununurra cost $170 and for us from Emma Gorge it cost $140. (I spent more than 75 min renegotiating a tour price with the management to even reduce this price to something that was affordable.) However we had to add our transfers to Emma at a cost of $164 per person!!!
The main problem for us was that because of the damage suffered from the prolonged wet season there was little open at El Questro for us to visit. As I said to the manager we should have been notified. I was sorry for El Questro but we should have been given the choice to go elsewhere instead. As it was, there were few independent travellers and it seemed because we were there they would do nothing to make our stay more enjoyable and they would not consider a discount. We were a captured audience!!
Even so the wet season distruction had nothing to do with the incredibly poor customer service provided at Emma Gorge by the hospitality staff. The food quality was bordering on inedible. Compared with the high quality meal and service we received at The Station, I can only think it was a staffing and resource issue. Maybe the takeover by US company Deleware is the problem. We found the field staff at El Questro wonderful. The rangers were lovely and provided information about anything we asked.
After our experience at El Questro, I really think it will need to lift its game in the future to compete with cheaper overseas tourism choices. After talking to fellow travellers, it seems there are far cheaper options in the eastern Kimberleys than those provided by some of the more upmarket resorts. One is using Kununurra as a base for all activities. On reflection that is what I would do in the future. than the way we spent the last 3 days.
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