Tuesday 12th July

Last day in Edinburgh today so we had advice from Gerry and had almost decided to go to Roselyn Abbey, of Davinci Code fame, by taking the number 15 bus from one block over from our B&B. Our waitress at last night’s dinner told us also we could take the bus out to Portobello and Mussleburgh Beaches so that was also on the agenda. At breakfast our next table tourists told us about an experience they had had a Mary King’s Close so we decided to do this first as they told us you had to book. So we got on the bus, bought all day tickets, and into town we went. We went to the information centre and were sent in the right direction but wouldn’t you know it we had to climb 132 steps to get us up to the Royal Mile. We found the Close and it didn’t open for 10 minutes. When we finally got in we booked tickets for the 11.00am tour.

Having an hour to kill we went looking for the Cameron Clan merino scarf. We had seen one of the Ancient Cameron Clan tartans but it was sort of a pale mauve shade and Jannie wanted the Green shade one. Most shops don’t stock Cameron scarves in any material so all I take from that is that Camerons’ were a bad lot and not too popular. We walked all of the way back up to the Castle and tried every shop, and there are lots of them, and we asked for our tartan scarf – no joy! Coffee time so we went to a little coffee bar almost alongside Mary King’s Close – great coffee. Jannie texted Marie and told her that we had booked the tour and the reply came back – Oh that’s great but a bit scary!! That fair put the willies into Jannie – what to expect??

Checked in on time – no photography down here we were told so I put the camera away. We were called up and went through this large oak door and were greeted by Stephen Boyd, a merchant from 1635 who owned a property at the southernmost end of Mary King’ Close. I have to say at this stage that Mary King’s Close is a buried secret beneath Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. It’s a warren of hidden streets that has remained frozen in time since the 17th century. There is nothing quite like this anywhere else. The upper floors of this and other adjacent closes were demolished to make way for a merchants market. Once the Market Buildings were finished in 1901 the merchants didn’t want to pay the rents so it was taken over by the city for their council offices.

Buried beneath the floor and foundations still remained the lower levels of what was the living quarters of people of all levels of status. Remember I told you that we had to climb 132 steps – well the Closes ran from the top to the bottom and were about 100m long. The lanes were narrow – about 2.5 metres, and the ground was just dirt. No paving or cobbles here. The buildings on either side of the Close were up to 8 stories high. At the top end of the Closes adjacent to the Royal Mile lived the wealthy and the further down you went the poorer the people became. Stephen told us of the conditions that the people of his time and the jobs that they had. We went down several flights of steps – all in the dark or almost as there were the occasional oil lamps flickering away. Careful where you put your feet he told us – you don’t know what you are likely to stand on. Ducking through low doorways, herded through small rooms where they was likely to have been 10-15 people living . Through the cow stalls and into the room where a family was dying from the plague. This was 1645. Stephen then showed us the full toilet pail in the corner and said that it was someone’s turn to empty it by chucking the contents out the window into the close at 7.00am and 10.00pm with the appropriate yell. He said that the stall holders shut up shop promptly as they knew that the 10.00pm time was approaching. More steps and more doorways – still dark and very musty. Jannie was having a right royal time of it and the blood circulation of my hand had been all but cut off. Up the steep slope we went, Stephen reminding us not to slip as the smell is a bit difficult to get out of your clothes. Back into the daylight and of course another gift shop. A great 80 minutes of history and a one man show.

Lunch and a walk down to Princes Street – Just so you know Ron there has been a delivery of prawns as the shortage was caused by an unprecedented demand in previous days – and of cause the usual ale and wine.

The afternoon was given to a walk down the upmarket George Street with shops all with sales on and one menswear shop had jackets reduced to £380 - £420. Out of my league being an OAP. The sun was hot and we walked back along Princes Street to catch the number 15 bus to go to Roselyn Abbey. We couldn’t find the bus stop for the number 15 so decided to get the bus up to close to our B&B and catch it from up there. Walked and walked – no number 15 up here. Asked a bus driver who stopped to set someone down and he told us you get this bus from Princes Street – so back we went on the next available bus. Just as well we had an all day ticket. No bus in Princes Street and we had had enough walking so decided to go back to our B&B. Sore feet and time for a whiskey.

Jill & Ron hope your cruise is great. Rachel - great to hear from you. I'm pleased to report that Grandad's toe seems slightly improved. I have passed on to him your recommendation that I need a foot massage!