Eat, Love, Pray you don't see another copy of that bloody book - Our last stop back in Bali is Ubud. The other half of Bali's tourism duopoly, it is a heck of a lot more cultural than Kuta.

Unfortunately, it's also now crowded with doe-eyed teenagers and recently-divorced women all clutching their copy of Eat, Love, Pray tightly to their confidence-lacking bosom in the hope that they'll find either peace or a piece of a hunky man in the Balinese jungle.

When they don't (and as one says, you can change your skies but you can't change your soul), they console themselves by buying huge paintings they can't get home or floaty white kaftan dresses they shouldn't wear at home. The locals hope that they just Eat, Pay, Leave.

Despite a visit to the monkey jungle, a 14km "stroll" around the rice paddies, an early-morning cycle down from the top of Mount Batur and an all-day festival of spa treatments for 20 bucks, the main thing to share is that we drank Kopi Luwak, coffee made from beans that a cat had munched and then poo-ed out.

Beats Starbucks, eh.