As we approach the end of our stay in Dubrovnik I feel the need to reiterate: The people of Croatia, contrary to what I was told thirty years ago by a Croat living in Toronto, are good friendly folks. Croatia has architecture to match the best in Europe. The most memorable aspect for me however, will be their rugged landscape with almost 5,800 kilometres of coastline touching waters that are the clearest of clear.  
 
For those planning a trip to Dubrovnik:
 
The people and their habitat are a step above in so many ways. How could I possibly write anything bad? Then Elenka began reading excerpts to me from a travel guide:
 
"'Dubrovnik disappoints diners with high prices, surly service and mediocre quality,' writes famed European Travel Specialist, Rick Steves." she started, smiled and then continued. "'The tourist board goes to great lengths to promote local wines and food, but neither meet expectations.'" She finished with a do-you-believe-me-now look.  
 
I peered back at Elenka, mouth agape, "The wait staff are all very nice, not surly," I said, before coming to the full realization of what she'd read to me. Steves was bang on about the food and the wine. Nine out of ten meals were mediocre. The only spices they seem to know are salt and sugar (they do seem to think of sugar as a spice) and they use way too much of both. For recipes that call for garlic, that's way over the top too.

 What I'd been really looking forward to was the Croatian specialty, Black Cuttlefish Risotto. The "black" means that squid ink is added to the ingredients. Four of the five times one of us ordered risotto it's been prepared using long grain rice. Risotto is an Italian dish where short grain, usually arborio rice is used. There's a real difference between the two rices, and with Croatia being so close to Italy you have to wonder what the problem is.
 
We've been to many stores in search of wine and can't find anything that's been made beyond Croatia's borders. That would be okay if we were in Chile where all of their wine is good, but in Croatia I'll bet there's not a wine that could make it onto any shelf outside Croatia. Of the four bottles we tried, most of their contents was poured down the sink.
 
A small warning about when to visit Dubrovnik: Don't come in the summer. We spent five days wandering this magnificent treasure and got to know some locals. They all complained that in summer there are so many tourists here that you can't move. It's these same people who make their living off the tourist horde and they complain - so you know it's gotta be bad. Early spring and late fall are the best times, they say. And I'd have to agree with the autumn suggestion. Elenka and I swam in the Adriatic, right along Dubrovnik's outer wall, in balmy October.
 
Above all, you should bring your own food to Dubrovnik. Something like unbreakable plastic 1 kg jars of peanut butter would work. Trouble is, there's almost no edible bread. But there's an abundance of packaged cookies and the possibility of fresh vegetables that could be used in place of bread.  
 
Walking along the top of the Old City's enclosed wall should not be missed. It's about 2 kilometres long and the views of the inner city and the Adriatic are spectacular.
 
Last, but not least: There is a highly recommended day trip in Dubrovnik. It's a three island excursion to Kolocep, Sipan and Lopud. The meals of fish we had which were cooked right on the boat were better than all of the restaurant chow. And the wine that came with the meal was of the all-you-can-drink variety. So what if it didn't taste so good and made you gag a little at first, that feeling goes away after a short while. The price tag for this excursion amounted to about 38 USD, not a bad deal considering you have a hard time getting a proper meal in Dubrovnik for less than twenty five bucks. The company running this excursion is called Vivado.

Rick Steves Source: "Rick Steves' Eastern European" guidebook, published June 2014