We had our breakfast at the hostel and checked out at 9am ready for another day of sightseeing. We embarked on a six and a half km walk north through Kyoto towards the Kinkaku-ji, other known as the 'temple of the golden pavilion and is one of the most famous sights in Kyoto. The walk took the best part of an hour but we felt really refreshed which actually made a change! The sun was out and we enjoyed a good chat along the way. We were missing our nightly chats whilst falling asleep as we were separated so seemed to have lots to catch up on.

We arrived at the temple just behind an Australian school party but the queue was quick and we paid the ¥400 to enter. The Kinkaku-ji is a zen Buddhist temple that sits within a late Muromachi period designed garden... This is a classic period of Japanese garden design and considered one of the best periods, bringing together structures within their surroundings in a minimalistic way. On entering the temple complex you have a short walk up past a few coffee shops and such before you turn the corner and are presented with a beautiful large pond with the temple sitting on the far side.

The temple was originally a villa belonging to a very important statesman and was known as Kitayama-dai. Then in 1397 it was purchased by a shogun (commander of force). It was then converted into the Kinkaku-ji complex and transformed in to a zen Buddhist temple after on the wishes of the shogan after he died. The temple itself managed to survived the Onin war when all the other buildings within the complex were burnt to the ground but unfortunately it was later burnt down in 1950 by a novice monk in who suffered from schizophrenia. The temple was the rebuilt in 1955 and is made of wood that has been covered in a good leaf.... On entering the garden you can't help but see how striking the building is reflected in the still water of the pond and against the wintery backdrop of the trees and plants, I however couldn't help but feel a little order whelmed as it still looks very new and you know its only about sixty years old... Not really the relic you think it is. I suppose it is very closely based on the original though and you can't help but appreciate the stunning architecture.

We wandered around and did manage to get some very pretty shots as the water was deadly still and the pavilion reflected beautifully. As we walked around the Japanese strolling garden we enjoyed the tranquility of the garden and the pretty water features that were scattered about. There are numerous little huts selling blessings and prayers and you can write your wishes on pieces of paper and tie them to a certain part of the complex... Very much like other Buddhist temples. There is also a small tea house which you can see from the outside and explains a bit about the Japan tradition of making tea. I particularly like that side of Japan as I love tea and I love how everything has a ceremony behind it.

After we had finished looking around the temple we headed out and passed some street venders selling numerous spicy nuts and rice paste sweets. They were offering free samples so Steven was there in a second trying all the various goodies. The guy was really nice and went though what each and everything was... We tried the wasabi peanuts and they were delicious, so nice that we went back and bought a packet... amazing! We then headed back in the direction of the hostel, I was debating heading back to the toji temple today as on the 21st of every month they hold a big market in the grounds of the temple. However it was a good 8.5km from where we were so thought we would head back towards the hostel... Grab our bags and chill before we head to Gion at four pm.

We were having a good chat and were enjoying the sunshine as we wondered towards the hostel when I noticed a bullet train passing over the bridge in front of us... They only pass through Kyoto station which is a about three km south of our hostel. I asked Steven and he had obviously noticed it too as he was examining the map. He then sheepishly said he hadn't realised we were walking so far and now we were past Kyoto station and almost off the map. It turned out we were actually now near to the toji temple so we thought it must be fate and we should have a look at the market after all. I'm so glad we did as the market was amazing... Literally hundreds of stalls selling food, drinks, kimonos, nick nacks and jewellery. It was amazing, we wandered around exploring the stalls and soaking up the bustling atmosphere before Steven spotting the elusive Takoyaki (octopus balls) and he soon had a huge grin on his face. We headed over to the stall and the two guys running it were hilarious... A right double act. We asked for six balls at ¥300 and the guy jumped to it whilst mucking around and asking for photos lol... They put the balls in to pot and spread the Takoyaki sauce on top then sprinkle on mixed herbs and bonito shavings (a type of fish) with a dollop of their own special mayonnaise. We took our pot and sat down at a table near by and Steven tucked right in. I sampled the balls and they were tasty... Similar to the fritter thing we had in Tokyo but that's probably due to the seasoning. Steven loved them and devoured the whole thing even the stomach churning tentacles.

After his fix we carried on walking around the market and his heart sank when he noticed someone selling Okonomiyaki the other Japanese food that he's been desperate to try. After a big internal struggle he suggested he just goes all out and buys one. I agreed saying that the market ones are probably a lot more authentic and tasty and it was only ¥500 and we could share it. Plus we weren't having dinner till seven thirty tonight and had a long walk home to walk it off. He was swung and purchased his dish. The Okonomiyaki was delicious... It's layers of cabbage, egg, batter, squid and pork belly. It was seasoned well and very yummy, Steven has never looked more content haha. He finished it off and actually said he was stuffed?! Words I don't hear very often lol... And we carried on with our exploration. We looked at so many jewellery stalls and food stalls before we thought we should start heading back to the hostel. On the way out we passed a guy selling old kimonos and out of the corner of my eye I saw a beautiful hint of pink within the pile. I went and and fished it out and it was beautiful. The sign said it was ¥800 but then the guy put a sign up in English saying fill a carrier bag for ¥1000. I told him I didn't want a bag and just the one so he said ¥300 ...I was happy to pay that as I was debating paying the ¥800. It's truly a beautiful kimono but quite small. Turns out that I think its probably a child's but the fabric is so pretty that I don't mind and it only cost about two pounds.

We hit the street and started the long 5km home... By now our feet were stinging and we were shattered. We arrived back at the hostel at about three thirty so rested for a min before grabbing our big bags and walking over to Gion (only about two km away) to our beautiful ryokan.

As we approached the ryokan I could not have been anymore excited but also exhausted. I was limping because my feet were so sore and my bag didn't help. We walked through the Main Street and headed up a small side street and towards very traditional Kyoto. At the end of the nostalgic street I could see the sight I had been waiting for and looking at continuously on trip advisor since Yangshou... when I was bedridden after our rain filled cycle. Montonago is a very traditional looking ryokan and the outside was beautiful and looked very much like a proper okiya. Be went up to the main door and inside we could see a small foyer and a water feature. As soon as we were noted there was a flurry of activity. The staff in their traditional kimonos were getting ready for our arrival and an elderly gentleman who I assumed was the owner opened the door and greeted us.

We entered into a small traditional looking porch and removed our shoes, which were then placed on a shelf with our names on within a cupboard. We then were greeted by the staff who bowed down on the floor in a respectful welcome gesture I've only seen done by geisha and was all carried out so elegantly... We were then given a pair of slippers each and our bags were removed. I felt so bad having these petite ladies try and take my heavy bag from me but they did so with such poise. We then filled in our registration card while our room was prepared and I felt so relaxed... The next 24hours were going to be magical. By the time we had filled in the registration card (and had our passports scanned... Of which they asked if we minded rather then demanded like a lot of hotels), we were escorted to our room by our own personal kimono clad hostess. She introduced herself and led us through the beautifully zen ryokan explaining where everything was on route. We came to our room and removed our slippers before heading in...

I can honestly say I was overwhelmed. It was like stepping back in time and was the most beautiful room, I was so emotional I was actually a little choked. The room was the exact one I hope it would be from the photos and was just wonderful, it was a ten tatami mat room with a large table in the middle and a chair on each side. In the middle of the far wall was a tradition paper and wood sliding door that looks out on to a beautiful harmonised zen garden. We had a private toilet with toilet slippers and a rivals bath and shower (though didn't use these) as well as a fridge and tv (though didn't see the point of the tv...). She told us to rest down on the chairs and she would come and serve us tea. We did as we were told and eased into the chairs which are on the floor... Steven wasn't as elegant in his ability and awkwardly stumbled on to the floor haha. We sat and took a moment to take in the atmosphere and peacefulness of the room, it was a world away frm where we have previously stayed. After a few mins there was a tap at the door and the room door slid open... there knelt down within the entrance to our room, between the two doors was our beautiful maid. She elegantly rose to her feet carrying a tray with hot water and some sweets. She then in a very traditional Japanese manner poured the hot water into the tea pot and allowed the green tea leaves to infuse before pouring us both a cup, she also gave us two small dishes containing a rice sweet with a nutty sesame coating. She then gave us a brief introduction to the ryokan and explained how everything worked... We were glad for this as felt a little out of our depth.

She firstly asked when we would like our dinner and we opted for seven thirty and then asked if we would like to book the public bath for an hours private use so we booked it from nine pm. She also asked what we would like to drink with dinner so we both agreed on trying sake. We then booked our breakfast for eight thirty am and the important aspects were done. She gave us a copy of our schedule and then proceeded to tell us a bit more about the comforts provided. Within our hidden waldrobe was our yakuta... This is a large and very comfortable kimono type robe that is quite thick and cosy. We were given one each with a thick belt that is used to tie around our waist and keep the robe in position. We were also given the coolest pair of socks that has a separate part for your big toe... Bit like mittens I suppose, they are worn by Japanese people who often wear them with sandals and kimono. They like feet to be covered in traditional Japan and more often then not people will wear socks or slippers in doors. There was also hand-warmers in case we felt a chill while walking around the garden or something as well as a thicker gown known as a tanzen to wear over our yakuta if we felt cold.

She then told us to sit back and relax and she would see us at seven thirty... However if we required her assistance then to call her. She then left and we sat back and enjoyed our tea. There is nothing I enjoy more than a beautifully made cup of tea (with leaves... Not dust) sipped from an exquisite piece of china. I love love love Japan for that very reason... Along with many others. We finished our tasty little snack and flicked through some of the literature that was on offer, Steven thoroughly enjoyed the book "etiquette of the ryokan" that ensured no faux pas were made while I was lost in a book on geisha's. It was very interesting explaining why their make up is done a certain way, what they wear in their hair and why and a brief introduction to the life of a Maiko (apprentice geiko or geisha).

After our tea we decided to head out and explore Gion before dinner... As we arrived in reception the ladies elegantly fell to ther knees and bowed, then stayed their till we had gone while the gentleman assisted with our shoes telling me I had mastered the Japanese way of putting on my shoes... This was sat perched on the step with my shoe clad foot on the tiled floor of the porch and my bare foot on the wooden foot rest that ensured your feet don't touch the dirty tiles... Steven hadn't quite mastered it and was swaying on one leg trying to get his shoes on. In the time since we had entered the ryokan the heavens had opened and it was drizzling outside. The gentleman kindly gave us an umbrella each then told us all the nice temples and famous places to see although we just wanted a short wander around. Gion was pretty much deserted and although the rain hindered my photo taking as I was trying to balance the umbrella, use the zoom with one hand while trying not to get the lens wet. It was very pretty with the street lights illuminating the rain on the cobbled streets. We walked around and enjoyed the quietness of the area and seeing into all the lit up shops and tea houses... It was very pretty. After about an hour we thought we should head back so wandered in the direction of the ryokan... Every now and then we saw a taxi parked up a side street waiting patiently and we wandered wether their customer was in fact a Maiko or a geiko... There wasn't really anyone around who may require a taxi and it was evening time when they at most likely to be out.

As we walked back we passed a vending machine that was distributing beer cheaper then the shop so bought a couple for later. It was pretty cool... On asking our maid later she said in Japan if you look underage you can carry a card that you put in the machine to prove you age, otherwise there is a camera within the machine that scans your face and estimates your age and wether you are old enough... Very futuristic.

On returning to the ryokan we were patted down with a towel by the gentleman and given our slippers before retreating to our room to sip a green tea and relax before dinner. Once seven thirty arrived we were thoroughly chilled and cosy listening to the rain in the garden outside. Our maid tapped on the door and when she opened it, she was again on her knees and presented beautifully. She bought in a tray each with chopsticks and a little cup for the sake which was about the size of a shot glass... Maybe a little smaller. She then placed a small decanter of sake on the table and started placing the dishes on our tray. There was a plum wine aperitif, as well as a stunning dish with various smoked fish including herring that was plaited. There was also a bowl of sashimi, Which is raw fish... It was delicious. The softness of the fish paired with the delicate flavour was mouthwatering and the mackerel was extremely scrummy. The plum wine was absolutely delicious and I could easily drank more. The sake was very nice although more a liqueur then a wine, tasty all the same though.

As soon as we had finished the first selection of goodies our maid was back with more delicately decorated foods. She bought a small bowl with seasoned potato, greens, a pink gluten flower and the juiciest shrimp I have ever had... It was extremely succulent with a slight sweetness. Along side it was a hot pot that came with a tea light to keep it warm. It was a good sized and very moist bit of smoke salmon with potatoes and a rice paste plait, served in a creamy sauce that is made from the remnants of making sake. It was very nice with a slight sharpness... Almost like a white wine cream sauce, it went down a treat.

Again as if by magic as soon as we were done along came the next course. This time we were treated to a very nice bit of smoked fish. It was slightly sweet with a salty undertone and absolutely delectable, one of our favourite courses. It came on a rectangle stone plate along side some pickled mountain yam and a plum jelly bow.... Yum! There was also a small bowl of gloopy soup with a dumpling in the middle that consisted of minced duck surrounded by potato. The dumpling was very tasty and although the soup had a nice taste the texture was a wee bit gloopy for me... A bit like when you add too much cornflour to stock.

Next came the course that Steven had been waiting for and had wanted to try since we landed in Japan... Tempera. It was exquisite ...the batter was so extremely light that you didn't feel bad eating it and when dipped in the dashi based broth was just amazing. We had two very large langoustines, a pile of exotic mushrooms and some bell peppers and they were fantastic. The broth was also beautiful and we enjoyed it immensely. Along side the tempera was a small very pretty bowl of pickled vegetables and flowers. This was very welcome after the richness of the tempera and I loved them. The small vegetables were delicious and tasted a little of sushi rice... Very nice indeed. Our last savoury course consisted of delicious Japanese rice, with a bowl of fresh miso soup and some sharp pickles. I could happily just eat miso soup with rice all day as it is just so delicious and miso soup is one of my favourite foods.

Lastly came the green tea mousse with a soy bean topping and it was amazing... Just sweet enough with the bitterness of the green tea... I devoured it! We then had some green tea made fresh for us and it was a lovely end to the meal. We found the whole experience amazing and have never had a meal last over ninety mins before... It was made more special by our maid who was happy to explain each dish to us and chat with us throughout the dinner. She produced everything so beautifully and with such an elegance, the while thing felt like a ceremony.

After our delicious meal we were plenty full and very relaxed... The time had come now to enjoy the hot bath. We headed in to the large bathroom and jumped under the shower to wash. The bath is like a mineral bath with hot water continuously flowing so it is etiquette to shower before hand and so the water stays clean. The bath was amazing... It was huge and easily enough room for us two lanky types and was so deep that when we sat down it came up to our chins... It was also amazingly warm. I was a bit apprehensive as I love my bath extremely hot, some thing Stevens always moaning about so I wasn't sure I would enjoy the bath but wow it was beautiful and so relaxing and just what are aching muscles needed after walking over 20km today. We lounged and steamed for a good half an hour before we couldn't cope any more. We climbed out and rinsed before putting on our robes and wandered back to our room... Bliss. On entering we found that the bed fairies had arrived and transformed our room, so that there was now a very inviting futon bed in the middle of the room. The bed looked so comfortable and the lamps were lit so there was a cosy glow. On our pillows sat a beautiful origami crane which I found to be such a sweet personal touch. We laid on the bed and listened to the rain while we chatted before we must have dozed off into a very restful sleep.