We arrived into Panajachel after a fairly painless drive from Antigua, which was a little bit like driving through a quarry but on a highway. Unfortunately we had just got off the bus and were looking for somewhere to stay (with heavy backpacks) when the heavens opened and we got absolutely soaked in a downpour. (Suzy: Mum, those trainers were worth every penny...my feet were dry after walking through river like streets!!).

We opted for the first place we could find (after a little detour) but it was rough even by our standards but we didn't have much choice. Put it this way...there wasn't always water and when it did come it was freezing, the sheet wasn't big enough for two and it was damp! Thankfully the rain cleared quite quickly so we could wander round the markets (Ian: argh! how many bloody markets can one country have that all sell the same things! I've decided to teach the first principle of business in Guate - find a niche and don't just sell the same tripe as everyone else).

"It's not the price, I know it's a good price, I just don't want any #$%!*?¿ scarves!!"

Panajachel is basically a bustling market town but with an amazing view of the lake, especially at sunset (see pics).

The next day we headed by boat over to Santa Cruz. To find a boat we had to wade through the hundreds of salesmen down by the docks, all pleading for your business. We were tired so let a particularly pushy guy lead us at a great speed to the "right" boat. Upon where we realised that the fare was quite expensive as it has to cover the locals who can take the boat for free but we don't mind. The ride was very slow ("Mas rapido" my ass!) and very crowded, but it was kinda of fun to ride with all the locals and their bananas.

Santa Cruz was absolutely lovely and we headed along the lakeshore in peace and traquillity occasionally popping our heads into the super swanky hotels that line the shore, which seem to be owned by hippies who got their act together once the smoke cleared. Luckily for us some wise official had decided that you have to have a public path all along the lakeshore even if you own the land above.

After lunch we managed to get an actual "Mas rapido" boat back, which was great fun even though it was a little sore on the backside as it crashed over the waves and wakes. Having missed the sunset the evening before we settled down to enjoy the view and what a view it turned out to be! Although we did have to fight off the occasional scarf or cashew seller...how many times do I have to say "No gracias!"

Tomorrow we are heading over to San Pedro and Santiago Atitlan. Let's hope the Xocomil is feeling nice (a storm god of the lake....kinda).