From Dar es Salaam yet another bus journey beckoned, this time covering a momentous 868 miles from East to West Tanzania. We were heading for the Mbeya region where we would spend a few days before attempting our first land border crossing into Malawi. Mbeya is a mountainous region with two large peaks dominating the landscape and overshadowing the main town. Somewhat traumatised after our last overland experience we tentatively sought out another bus ticket in Dar es Salaam. Our old favourite 'Dar Express' that had taken us to Moshi and back didn't make this particular trip so we were reliant on 'Sumry High Class'. Now everything here in Tanzania is marketed as 'luxury, executive, high class' etc so I wasn't holding my breath.

Our early start at Ubongo bus station was a pleasant surprise as our bus was positively delightful - wide reclining seats with faux leather and windows resplendent with drapes; we even managed to leave on time! I have never been so obsessed with public transport but was positively gleeful at the prospect of the next 12 hours knowing that even I with my little legs had room to stretch them out. Needless to say we arrived safely in Mbeya, en-route we passed through a National Park and were treated to yet more giraffe, elephant, buffalo and impala all from the coach. Despite the wildlife and beautiful scenery the locals were more interested in any crash sites we passed.

Given our recent travel experiences James and I decided that our stay in Mbeya would be relaxed and a little taste of the good life so we treated ourselves to a stay at Utengule Coffee Lodge, a stunning little spot on the outskirts of town. Utengule consists of a lodge and coffee plantation, they own rather an obscene amount of hectares, growing and producing Arabica coffee which is sold internationally. The lodge was stunning and our first morning was spent taking a stroll through a tiny percentage of the plantation marvelling at the coffee laden trees. James even managed a game of squash with the ex-manager while I soaked up a little more sun. In the late afternoon we were treated to a tour of the plantation and the factory. Leon and Harps you would be impressed with the breadth of my coffee knowledge. The tour was fascinating and we were lucky enough to see the harvested cherries arrive by the truck load and watch the early stage of processing in action. The best grade of Arabica is produced on site and is among the top 5% in the world, it was the best I've ever tasted. James even took a few sips of my Cappuccino and could almost understand the pleasure of a cup of coffee.

The following day we set off for a hike up Mbeya Peak xxmeters, we were convinced it would be a relatively simple climb after our day on Kili a few weeks ago. We couldn't have been more wrong. This was proper trekking through tall grasses, teetering on the edge of vertical drops and clambouring hands and feet up sheer walls of hill where there was no apparent path. Instead of a single peak you had to climb up and down three to make the final ascent, after 3.5 hours of continual uphill climb I had very little to say to anyone! Our guide was wonderful and pointed out the sights in halting English and we managed to communicate with my little Swahili. Arriving at the bottom after 7 hours we were both glad to see Archie in our Landover and couldn't wait for a dip in the ice cold pool.

Today we are stiff from our mini adventure and were sad to say goodbye Utengule. Tonight is our final night in Tanzania (all being well). Local buses should take us to Songwe River Bridge where we walk over the border and into Malawi. Tanzania has been incredible but the laid back atmosphere of Malawi with its lakeside beaches beckon...