We awoke the next morning to find that Kilindoni, the capital, was more than just a few dark streets and found our way to a little breakfast eatery. We tucked into the best chapat (basically chapatti) and meat skewers I've tasted, washed down with black chai (sweetened masala tea) which set us up for a day of exploring.

A local boy named Shamy took us under his wing and kindly gave us a tour of the town including a visit to his home to meet his parents. He took us to all the local haunts and was able to answer all our questions in relatively good English which was a bonus. He was a very enterprising person who told us all about his plans to revolutionise the tourism industry on Mafia Island and was saving up for a few bicycles so that he could take tours around the island. Unfortunately I think he was slightly ahead of his time as, as far as we could make out the only tourist on the Island. Good luck to him none the less!

After a couple of nights we moved guest house to one called 'Whale Shark Lodge' aptly named as it was on a cliff and had excellent views over the sea. The guesthouse was actually closed due to the rainy season but we managed to barter a very good deal for a couple of nights and consequently we were the only guests staying. I would recommend it to anyone especially as they would bring dinner to your 'banda' (thatched hut) as you watched the sun setting over the ocean.

The following day we took a dalla dalla to Chole Bay for a snorkelling trip. The journey was hilarious; the roads are unsealed and essentially made of sand. Ideally you need a 4wd to get around. But no, the trusty mini bus attempted to carry 29 people across potted tracks. Amazingly we only got stuck once, everyone had to get off and all the guys including James spent the next 15 minutes bumping the thing out of its rut. The snorkelling was lovely but we were both a little disappointed with Chole, especially having paid high park fees.

Neither of us could bear the 2 day journey back up the coast to Dar so we treated ourselves to a flight to our next destination Kilwa Masoko. The airport is tiny and the planes even smaller. Ours was a 12 seater with one propeller on the nose. There were three passengers and the captain. Departures/customs was a cursory question regarding sharp objects and the official appeared disappointed when we replied we were not carrying any. She took our word for is and waved us on board. The flight over the Indian Ocean was stunning, passing tiny islands, sandbanks and crystal clear water.

We touched down in Kilwa Masoko in no more than a grassy field, very impressed with the skills of the pilot and got in a tuk tuk that took us to our next place of residence.