Chalalán Ecolodge and the Madidi National park
Amazon Basin

Our flight took us into the heart of the Amazon basin and only took 30 minutes on the friendly Amaszonas Airline. It was my favourite takeoff of all time, made special because of la Paz' priveledged height (3660m above sea level) and its extra thin air. There isn't sufficient air pressure to allow the plane to lift, so despite enormous speed down the runway it does not rise, but sort of shoots off the cliff edge directly over the heart of La Paz. The pilot then treats us all to a grand, banking 360degree display over the worlds highest and most spectacular capital. When we land in Rurrenbaque after 25 minutes it is like entering a different continent altogether. We are both excited about what the jungle will offer us tomorrow.

Jabmany is our guide. He is Tacana and was born in San Jose which is in the jungle on the outskirts of Madidi National Park. As well as his mother tongue he speaks perfect Spanish and English. He is learning German and he supports Tottenham Hotspur. He calls me 'mister' or 'misterios' or 'misterico'. Sometimes they call me Señor Flaco and they all giggle. I don't know what this means.

Jab stops sometimes as he leads us through the dense rainforest. He is listening. Sometimes he tells us something (see appendix), sometimes he does an animal call, or sometimes he just moves on again. He never seems to master Lindsay's name and either refers to her as 'missus' or simply 'you'. Lucy he consistently refers to as 'plucy', although it is not clear whether this is a joke or not.

On our final night Jab performs the role of official host, master of ceremonies and also, when the coco leaf ceremony is in full swing, Shaman. This seems to mean he is in charge, although the hierarchy is unclear since all members of staff are always joking with each other in a variety of different languages. Everyone is happy and relaxed at Chalalan and naturally this includes the guests. Why wouldn't you be, when surrounded by this amazing rainforest, spectacular scenery and superb (if basic) accommodation. The food is also excellent and we are served a variety of fresh local and classic dishes. All are very tasty, especially when you consider it is 5 hours by boat up an Amazon tributory (Rio Beni) to the nearest 'town'. Rurrenbaque is considered the capital of the Bolivian Amazon basin. Although this pueblo of 3000 inhabitants is technically accessible by road, you probably wouldn't want to brave the 22 hour journey from La Paz or 18 hours by bus from Coroico. Sometimes the road is closed or impassible due to rain or mud.

We thought the trip into rurrenbaque was on a small plane- 20 rows of 4. But on the way back it is a double propeller 16 seater Fairlight. Since the pilots leave the cockpit door open you can see the runway and you can also see them both forcing the throttle to the metal at takeoff. Despite the unavoidability of having to watch the Wizard of Oz' at work behind his curtain it is an enjoyable experience and we aren't surprised when the little plane hammers safely onto the extra long La Paz runway.

In the taxi on the way back from El Alto to Arthys guesthouse we both agree that this is the best thing we have done yet. My only regret is that the chalalan office had run out of chalalan baseball caps. I am consoled by the knowledge that the memories of Madidi national park and its pristine rainforest will last much longer than any merchandise could.

When I think of Chalalan I will probably think about the terrifying motorised call of the howler monkeys on the Friday morning, surely the weirdest and scariest sound I have ever heard. I might think of the nighttime ceremony, the tingle of the coca leaf, vine and bicarbonate in the cheek or sacrifices of 'puma milk' to the powerful goddess Pachamama. I might think about my midday swim in the lake, observed from afar by silent caimen, busy piranhas and the sleepy anacondas on the bottom.

When Lindsay thinks of chalalan she might think of frantic dancing with the Tacana locals at the ceremony party. She will remember the incredible views over Lago Chalalan from both of the lookout points. But best of all she will remember the millions of stars above our canoe with the drums ringing out over the lake, with eyes all around us and bulldog bats flapping as they search for insects.

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Appendix

Bolivian Amazonia - a compendium of stuff seen

Trees and plants:
Colomera - tall tree colonises an area
Almondrillo- almonds. Huge tree with thick, fin like roots.
Walking palm- palm which grows hard leg like roots which can literally walk across the forest over time 2-3 meters.
Acaai palm- this is where the Brazilians get their sorbet from. Full of nutrients but the bark is weak and can't be used for building
Wild cinnamon- not the same as our cinnamon but can be used in cooking. A small thin tree that grows very slowly.
Cats claw- a leanna vine that grows from the ground. Useful in medicines and full of good properties. Strong, you can make cups from it. Recognisable from its cats claws on the finer vines.
Strangler figs- 7 different types of this in madidi. The plant that cannot grow without the trunk of another tree, but which eventually consumes its host, which falls killing both.
Sigueme (follow me)- ivy which closely climbs up host like footprints.
Iberium- rubbing leaf with water can turn hands purple. Small tree used as a dye.
Rubber / latex tree. Slash the trunk to harvest the sap.
Sombrero mushroom- small and delicate white capped
Cheese plant- epiphyte plant which straight hanging roots
Orchid- another epiphyte growing on larger trunks

Birds:
Howaxim- strangled throaty call. Large brown bird and crowned vulture like bright blue head.
Wood creepers- brown and wren like
Macaws- monogamous green, blue or red parrots. Distressed screeching call.
Egrets
Cranes
Tapacare- huge brown bird with grey rhino like horn.
Social tree warbler- small yellow bird with electronic sounding call

Mammals:
Howler monkeys: the laziest monkey in the forest. Bright orange like Curious George. Prehensile tail always clings. Metallic, alien sounding constant grinding call which phases in and out. This welcomes each morning or warns of rain or danger. Communicates position. Black mask like face.
Yellow squirrel monkeys- cute and mischievous yellow pack monkey. Long non-prehensile tail is used for balance. Chirruping clicking squeal call. Play fights. Socialise with the...
Capuchin monkey- large black monkey with white face. Semi prehensile tail. Thought to be most intelligent animal in South America. Will find novel ways of breaking nuts.
Spider monkey- unfortunately didn't see this.
Peccary - foul smelling wild pig. Runs in packs crashing through undergrowth. Shy.
Jaguar- heard its blood curdling roar.
Capybara- worlds largest rodent. Stays in families. Ears, eyes and nose on a line, and webbed feet allow it to swim well and evade jaguars.

Reptiles and fish
Black caiman- larger than the Brazilian counterpart
Piranha- leaping fully out of the water