Finding myself in Potosi, late at night and almost 2 hours later than necessary was not really what I wanted. A city 4100m above the ocean, it has a sense of craziness and chaos (maybe it's the altitude), with people running through the streets and taxis speeding along the narrow, winding roads. It was yet again another culture shock for me, and as I hopped into that sketchy looking taxi (don't think It was one) I had never felt so eager to get showered, eat and sleep. Ah yes, the 3 things I have come to desire most throughout this trip, all in quick succession too. After I had arrived in my hostel, met some nice friends (who offered me food and wine), and washed away the memories of the Uyuni-Potosi journey I had entered deep sleep in no time, like a big bear mid-hibernation.
The next morning, still unsure about taking a mine tour (the main reason to come to Potosi), I ate a variety filled breakfast which helped me make my decision. After signing my well being alway I joined a typical tour to the mines. First stop was for changing into the clothing (helmet, pants, boots, jacket), then we headed to the market to buy some gifts for the miners. I opted for the safe gift of coca leaves and fanta (a real crowd pleaser). While you can buy cigarettes and alcohol for the miners, the lack of oxygen and high temperatures means it is not recommended.
The mine is actually insane.
A few fast facts:
Primarily for silver, it is now mined for copper, zinc and a host of other materials.
It is a place where money = power. The system operates based on wealth. The more money you have, the more machinery you can buy and then rent this to other mining groups (for a fee).
The average lifespan of a miner is only 55 years, this is party due to the lack of oxygen and other damaging gases and chemicals down there. I met kids as young as 13 years.
So why do they put themselves through these unpleasant conditions? A mineral vein can be long enough for a miner to earn money needed to leave the mines for good. There can be big rewards.
So as I said goodbye to the daylight for a while we entered a tunnel. The first thing I noticed was the lack of air in there. We were forced to keep up with the group leader and all found ourselves gasping at the first stop (15 mins in). Many people threw in the towel here, no air, poisonous gases, searing heat and small tunnels are enough to put anyone off. The thought of going back also crossed my mind a few times. But I stuck it out, and handed the (surprisingly jolly) miners I met along the way my gifts from above. In addition to the unpleasant conditions, most of the work is done by hand. This means frequent cart derailments (repaired by hand), rockslides and lots of things generally just going wrong. After 4 levels down and 2 hours in the mine we were out, and I was so happy to be enjoying the oxygen once again. Potosi mines are something I can never forget, made more memorable by the horrendous conditions miners face.