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"Death Road", The World's Most Dangerous Road, Camino del Muerte etc. The title of world's most dangerous road is sure to attract flocks of adrenaline junkies, bmx nerds and hard nuts alike, and sure enough, when we rocked up to the top of the mountain for the start (over 4700m asl) there were herds of full face-helmet clad, testosterone filled blokes on bikes with suspension springs in every possible gap, firing each other up for a day of mayhem and speed. It was never really my intention of signing up for the death road tour, the night before, I strolled into the agency and walked out somehow booked in to it for the next day. Not sure how it happened, the pretty tour agent was pushing all the right buttons (it was also cheap). Decked out in armour, helmet and a jacket which I was hoping was more waterproof than it looked, I picked up my "k-mart" style bike (only dodgy front suspension) and asked myself: "should I really do this?", well the answer is OF COURSE!
We were briefed on the days activity, which included a stern warning of many risks involved in the ride, s**t started to get real at this stage, less laughter and joking around and more serious faces, but everyone was still keen to hit the road. The first part was a 8km, 45 minute descent to the park border boundary. Surprisingly, the road was paved but I had NEVER, ever been so cold in my life. Seriously, I sat on that bike (barely), almost frozen, singing and asking myself why. Actually I think it was a rendition of "Why Delilah" by Tom Jones. One of the most horrible times of my life, I couldnt feel my fingers at all, with rain, snow, ice and wind making things just that bit more special. Rocking up to the park entry, saturated, frostbitten and down a penis and one, maybe two testicles (victims of frostbite) I tried to warm up by eating an egg roll from a roadside shopkeeper who probably found it quite humorous to see loads of foreigners standing around shivering.
The next section of the route was passable only by car, as parts had succumbed to the treacherous wet and began crumbling away. Arriving at the top of the next part (The real "Death Road"), we were given serious instruction (no selfies while riding, dont fall off the edge etc. all the essentials) and also reminded that people do actually die along this road each year (I later found out it was around 200-300 annualy). This area was alot warmer, humid and more jungle-like overall. My hands began to thank me, as they regained mobility. Like small children on the first day of big school, we set off timidly, one behind the other to begin the 3km vertical descent, stretched out over a 60km road.
My first glance at the sheer 200m drop a couple of metres beside me nearly caused me to lose balance and bite the dust, so I refrained from this along the rest of the course. The average width of the road is only around 3m, not wide enough for 2 cars at the same time, so making your way through the windy, gravel road became pretty grim when blind corners were involved. I actually witnessed one guy collide with a car, but probably had reduced his speed enough when he actually hit it as to not cause to much damage (apart from a bloody nose). When you see the road for yourself, it really makes you wonder why anyone would use it!
After regaining a bit of confidence, it was time to burn rubber and loosen up. I began to get the hang of lack of traction, tight corners, and frequent passing trucks/cars etc. The straight sections were perfect for flying down full speed before slowing down around the corners, this seemed to work well for me. There are no barriers on the road, apart from a few that would not even stop the slowest of vehicles from a nasty accident, so it was absolutely necessary to focus and go only as fast as was comfortable. We were told there were tourists who had unfortunately met untimely ends from losing control of their bike.
Spending so much time focussing on the road infront of me, I had forgotten about the amazing views of the surrounding mountains either side of me. Covered in vegetation, crops and sometimes houses, huge mountains stuck out as far as the eye could see. Down below was the jungle, with rivers and streams running down (sometimes across the road) into the valley. I did stop to take photos and admire the view, as I felt that it was a pretty unique environment: a place where the jungle lowlands and mountain highlands meet - an area known as the Yungas. Amazing.
Around 2 hours from the top of the second, warmer section and we were almost there, passing children playing football in the street, chickens running around and farmers tending to their harvest. We arrived into Corioco for celebratory beers as a means to relax the nerves before enjoying a buffet lunch and shower. Death Road is more than just a name, and while I never felt in real danger, it is a sure fire way to get the adrenaline flowing but a bloody good time all the same. I certainly did get the t-shirt!
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