Well it certainly feels like we've had a few adventures in the past few days!

We left Kathmandu (after a minor incident involving a penknife and Gemma's thumb - we discovered Graham is not terribly good in a crisis!) and after picking up our permits and visa's from the airport (rather last minute, we know!) we had a fairly smooth journey until we got within about 50km of the border, when we happened across a rather nasty motorbike accident and then about 6 or 7 maoist roadblocks . . . despite the average maoist age appearing to be about 15 it made Gemma distinctly nervous and we were rather glad when we reached the border . . . a bit late it turned out! As China is 2hrs 15 minutes ahead of Nepal and the border closed at 6pm we flew through passport control and were swiftly united with our driver, guide and jeep. However, after about 10 minutes we came across something of a traffic jam (about 300 trucks all pointing in different directions, apparently all trying to go the same way), so we hopped out, legged it up the road and flagged a passing taxi - we made it to the border with minutes to spare - without our jeep, driver, or bags! We were assured that the police would be down to sort out the chaos "later", so we settled down for a bit of a wait and sure enough our driver appeared about an hour later (we've no idea how he got past the rather strict looking border guards!).

We were then informed that we had a road to take that was "under construction" (by which they mean not a road at all, by the way!), and we had to take it that night because otherwise we'd be stuck at the border until the following night. We were also told that it was dangerous at night and that it was only open to vehicles going the way we wanted to go between 1am and 6.30am, but the guide had a friend (Marian - ignore this bit - it was all perfectly fine!) . . . so we set off . . . at dusk . . . in the rain . . . perfect! So we creeped under overhanging cliffs propped up with broken concrete pillars and then the fog came in, and we started meeting oncoming vehicles . . . so we turned off the lights so we could see where the road went in the fog . . . and our guide got his prayer beads out and started praying . . . we were filled with confidence!! But, after only a minor incident with a rock and a ditch (in which we lost only a small piece off the jeep!) we arrived in Nyalam - the prayer beads obviously did the trick! We then heard that the road had been shut because it was deemed too dangerous - no s**t!!

The second day we left Nyalam in rain and mist and climbed and climbed and climbed up onto the vast, vast Tibetan plateau and the most perfect clear, blue skies. That night we were supposed to stop in Tingri, but as we were suffering no ill-effects from the altitude we chose to head on up to Rongbok and Everest Base Camp. It was incredible - with Everest in the distance and 3 and half hours of it just getting closer and closer and closer!

However, we arrived at Rongbok to be told that there was no room at the inn! We were rather keen for our guide to cough up for the rather posh new hotel that has sprung up there - he was not! He assured us that by the time we got back from the base camp that he'd have "sorted some beds" - we were rather sceptical as to exactly what these would be - particularly as after we got back from base camp he did not seem keen to show us until after it got dark! It turned out that a rather lovely young monk was giving up his room for us in the actual monastery! (We were still a bit sceptical as we'd heard that the guesthouse was a bit dire, so didn't hold out much hope that the monastery would be better!) It was great! We were dead warm and cosy and after the curious little faces at the window and the other monks who'd come to stare had drifted off our friendly monk made sure we were settled and we embarked on a bit of trading - he wanted our torch, we wanted his carvings . . . quite a good deal and rather unique souvenir we thought! He was really sweet and with a moonlit Everest out the window we were exceedingly content!

The terrible night we had was nothing to do with warmth or comfort - rather more to do with the blinding headaches and nausea caused by the disrespect we had shown to the altitude in ascending 1300m in a matter of hours! We were rather glad when morning came and we could start heading down again. However . . . our jeep up to this point was proving a bit temperamental, but generally came through in the end. Things went downhill with the jeep from here on in . . . bump starting a jeep at over 5000m is no laughing matter, let us assure you!

Feeling dramatically better almost straight away, we headed onto Shigatse over a pass as high as Everest Base Camp (5150m) from which we could see 4 of the highest mountains in the world (all over 8000m) - incredible (see photo). When we arrived in Shigatse we realised we were in for a proper treat! A hotel . . . with attached bathroom . . . and a western toilet - this was not to be sniffed at let us assure you (or certainly sniffed at a whole lot more than some of our previous pit latrine experiences anyway!)!

The following morning we visiting Tashi Lunpo monastery, previously the home of 8000 monks and the Panchen Lama, now housing a lonely 700 monks and the new chinese chosen Panchen Lama resides in Beijing. We had mixed feelings.

We then headed onto Gyantse and Pelkor Chode monastery and the kumbum temple. We were really lucky to arrive as the monks were chanting - an experience we were really pleased not to have missed. For two rather non-religious people it felt very special and bizarrely calming.

That night we had quite a meal experience! In trying to find a restaurant recommended in the guidebook (Rough Guide, Smough Guide!) we stumbled into a first floor eatery . . . before we could blink and realise quite what a filthy, dirty dump it was we had been ushered to some seats, tea poured and meal choices taken . . . we felt we were in for a bit of a disaster - or at least a bit of food poisoning! But, it was the best meal we'd had so far (and since!) - it was yummy! And we also helped provide a great deal of amusement for all the local Tibetans who came in afterwards - whether because they'd also heard the food was good or because the word had gone out that there were two weird tourists sitting there waiting to be stared at we're not quite sure!

And then our last day driving . . . we headed onto Lhasa through sand dunes that appeared out of nowhere and disappeared just as quickly. And now for a bit of Amanda-style effusiveness! (sorry Mand!) This country has to be the wildest, vastest, most inhospitable moonscape on earth. Gemma's smitten and Graham is possibly a little less girlishly so! We are in awe of the people who exist here - they're tough, we'll give them that!