The weather was a bit grim as we set off to explore Langoya. We headed south for a change towards the town of Melbu. The scenery was stunning despite the rain and heavy clouds obscuring the mountain tops. Water on one side, dark, towering mountains on the other, and the roads hardly wide enough for two cars to pass. I was amazed at how much snow was still around at quite low levels. We crossed one of the many impressive bridges to circle the island of Hadseloya before heading north to Myre where we stopped for lunch. There aren't many places where you can just pop in for a cup of tea, or even to just take a photo. The restaurant didn't look very inviting and the staff spoke no English but we managed to understand each other and we enjoyed a delicious meal.

We had heard that Nyksund was worth a visit so that's where we headed next. I can't tell you how excited I was to spot the fish-racks adorned with hundreds if not thousands of cod drying in the salty air. I had read about them but thought they may have been taken in by the time we arrived. The fish are hung up to dry from February to May. Needless to say it was a bit whiffy!

In around 1900, Nyksund was a financial power house in Vesterålen. As it is close to the waters of the open sea, the town was just a short distance from the best fishing grounds, so boats came here to join in the seasonal fishing expeditions. Fish processing facilities, shops, a bakery, a school; the town was a thriving little community.

After World War II, Nyksund went into decline. The boats had become bigger, and the harbour in Nyksund was too narrow and shallow to receive them. The bigger boats were also faster, so they could easily put into shore at the warmer, more sheltered port of Myre. In the 1960s, the last residents received resettlement grants, and by around 1970 the town was dead. The more modern Myre had taken over completely. Quays, wharfs and houses were left to the elements at one of the most exposed locations along the coast.

Now, with a new lease of life, Nyksund has accommodation and local cuisine for holiday makers. The approach road was a bit scary as it clung to the side of a cliff by the skin of its teeth and could only accommodate one car at a time with occasional passing places. As it is low season, we found the place deserted and freezing but an interesting visit. Had the weather been better and had we eight or so hours to spare it may have been worth having a go at the 15 km Dronningruta (The Queen’s Route). This name was given to the walking trip from Nyksund over the mountain to Sto after Queen Sonja walked here in 1994. The route follows the shoreline and then winds up through the mountains.

We had to head back to Myre in order to join the 935 to the fishing village of Sto on the northern tip of Langoya. With around 175 residents it is said to be so quiet that the sea birds nest in the Main Street. It was certainly quiet.

It stopped raining! We just had the final lobe of Langoya to explore so we headed west to Rise and Straume which seemed to have a completely different feel about it. It was much more open farm land than rugged coast, a very pleasant drive indeed.

The restaurant in th hotel is closed on Sundays so we polished off the leftover pizza from lunch and enjoyed a beer or two in the hotel bar.