Our lift to the airport arrived exactly as promised at 4.00 am, by 6.40 am we were taxiing down the runway. What should have been a 2 hour 15 minute journey took us an hour and a half, must have had a prevailing wind! Iceland is an hour behind us so today has been a very long day!

The Hotel Klettur is quite basic but spotlessly clean and perfectly adequate, just wish we could turn the heating down. It's a beautiful sunny day and quite warm resulting in the usual confusion of attire by holidaymakers. Many die-hard hikers refusing to divest themselves of fleeces and waterproof clothing and are sweltering and then there's us in t-shirts trying to convince ourselves that if the sun is out, it must be warm. To be honest, it is until you're forced onto the shady side of the street or you're exposed to a freakily strong breeze outside a church. Anyway, I'm sure we're both a bit sunburnt!

First thing we needed was food. We headed down Laugavegur in search of the famous
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, or hotdogs to you and me! We reached the old harbour before we found them. I've got to say, they were nothing to write home about and I won't be upset if I don't have another.

As we were so close, we decided to explore the harbour further. It was a strange mixture of cruise ships and merchant ships with the most picturesque backdrop that is the Akrafjall and Esja mountains. Follow the path a little further and you can't help but be impressed by the magnificent (and controversial) Harpa, an asymmetrical glass building that looks like a mighty iceberg has crashed on to the shore, glinting in the sun. It is the city's opera house and concert hall. It had its first concert in 2011, yes just 3 years after the "crisis and crash" that brought Iceland to its knees. It became a symbol of excess and corruption and was nearly demolished but the government decided to press on with it's plans to finish it.

Following a very pleasant footpath around the harbour we came across an impressive metal sculpture of the skeleton of a Viking Ship. I was disappointed that there was no real story behind it, it was just a sculpture. It does however, have the evocative title of The Sun Voyager.

We had picked up a city guide book and decided to take ourselves on a historic trail. I hasten to add that it included a few stops for refreshments and shopping that weren't part of the suggested route. Even though not included in our historical trail guide, we started at the beautiful (and modern, 1986) church, Hallgrimskirkja which stands on a hill and can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. Inside you will find the 5275-pipe organ that was installed in 1992. From here, we walked down Skolavoroustigur to Gossip Ledge where people used to gather to swap a tale or two. Just across the road is the Penalty House built in 1874. This dreary little place still functions as a prison today. We follow a needlessly complicated route to find the House of Parliament built in 1881. Prior to this the Icelandic Alþingi assembled outside at Þingvellir National Park. We follow Reykjavik's oldest street, Adalstraeti, where ruins have been revealed dating back to the Viking era when the first settlers came to Iceland. No. 10 Adalstraeti is considered the city's oldest timber house. A little bit further and we almost missed the Falcon House where Icelandic Falcons were kept before being shipped off to the European aristocracy. Finally, it's Government House which was Ireland's first proper prison, built in 1771. Today it is the Prime Minister's Office and serves as the meeting place for the 12 ministers that make up the state council. Some Icelanders say that, while they may have closed the prison, the criminals still haven't left the building!

Now, I don't know whether to share this with you but on our way back, we discover that Reykjavik has the only Penis Museum, probably in the world, or to give its official title, Icelandic Phallological Museum - least said!

Now I have a confession to make! we tried minke whale for dinner. It wasn't unpleasant, very like a beef steak but more sinewy. I doubt I'll be partaking again and Steve wasn't impressed. However, the restaurant was very enjoyable if you're not in a hurry. Very relaxed in both atmosphere and service although they didn't hurry us even though they were turning custom away. Don't think we'll ever get used to paying almost £5 for a pint!