Well, it's been 33 days since we boarded the ms Maasdam and it's beginning to feel quite familiar. We've been with some of the same passengers since we pulled away from the pier way back on October 20th. We know them by name, we know where their from and in some cases we know their "stories". We've got to know the guys in the bars, dining rooms and various cabin stewards on a first name basis, particularly Jean....she just never sees a stranger I guess. We've traveled through some 12,000 miles of blue oceans, straits and seas to seventeen ports-of-call here in the southern hemisphere. We've sat down to 99 meals and 66 desserts - it's really nice to have all the food prepared and sit and eat at a white-clothed table every day, but things are starting to taste the same. I've got to the point where I'm playing jokes on my room steward, Slam. Everyday when he prepares our room, he carefully folds the corners of the toilet paper roll ever so professionally. What we've been doing after every use is to fold back the corners of the roll, just exactly as he had left it. Lately, he's been looking at us very strangely.

Deborah and I just attended our HAKA class which is a type of ancient Moari war dance/chant used at the New Zealand All-Black matches around the world. It provides a fierce display of a tribe's pride, strength and unity.

WORDS FOR THE HAKA - KA MATE - KA MATE
KA MATE
It is death - We are at war
KA MATE
It is death !

KA ORA
It is life - But now there is peace !
KA ORA
It is life !

KA MATE
We're going to die - We thought we were all going to die !
KA MATE
We're going to die !

KA ORA
We're going to live - but now we are safe !
KA ORA
We're going to live !

TENEI TE TANGATA
This is the man, because our leader is so strong and masculine,
PU-HURU-HURU
So hairy

NANA NEI I TIKI MAI
Who fetched, and made shine the sun !
WHAKAWHITI TE RA
Has unified us and brought back the sunny days of peace !

UPANE
Together !
KA UPANE
Keep together !

HUPANE
Up the step !
KAUPANEA
second step !

WHITI TE RA
Out comes the sun !
HI
Ahhh !

All of the above is done with a rhythmic stomping of the right foot and fierce facial expressions that include bulging eyes and sticking out your tongue as far as it will possibly go. I've attached a video from some local Maori locals just so you can see the final effect.We're on our way to Milford Sound tomorrow, so, we'll keep you posted.