Day 11 Throng La Pass (5,416m)

So the big day had arrived, I like most people had managed no sleep but was keen to get started, so got bundled up in almost all the clothes I'd taken with me and opened the door to find a thin blanket of snow had fallen overnight, which just made it all the more magical.

It seemed everyone was trying to get an early start, so after a cinnamon roll I was all set but the boys were taking a little longer, what with their usual 2 bowls of porridge. Tek was chomping at the bit to get going, so after his 3rd attempt to get me going and I again said I was waiting for the others he got fed up and said he was starting I could catch him up. Now this was the one day it might have been quite useful to have a guide as we were walking up a snowy mountain in the dark, but I was glad of the peace so let him go ahead . we eventually set off at 4.45 while it was still dark but there was a big group not far ahead and at this altitude no one was moving too fast so it was easy to follow their trail. It was beautiful watching the dawn break over the mountains all around us. it was a steep from the beginning so we were glad to get to high camp an hour and a half later- we definitely deserved a tea break. At this point I saw Tek had no gloves and it was about -20. I'd asked him if he had everything in Manang but obviously not so I bought him some gloves and tea and we set off again.

The scenery was truly spectacular I was walking on a high. I kept taking pictures trying to take it all in, but they definitely don't do it justice. Just being in the middle of all these majestic snow covered mountains was mind blowing. You could really feel the effects of the altitude, it took much more out of you to take each step, but overall I felt great. The girls weren't doing so good, particularly Tali who had been powering ahead until now. By the next tea shop she had a severe headache and nausea and more importantly starting freaking out thinking she had AMS (acute mountain sickness) and would have to descend. Now I have no medical expertise but from what I knew she only had symptoms of mild AMS as her breathing was still fine and that would be my point to start panicking, but I could see it was the panic that was her biggest problem. I gave her some Diamox (used to treat AMS) and another girl gave her stress reliving oil drops (also seeing she was having a mild panic attack) and Tek eventually handed over some cloves of garlic he apparently had the whole time. After weighing up her symptoms and options she decided to carry on so I took her to the front of the group, keeping her moving and talking for about an hour until she was considerably calmer. But the altitude here needs to be taken seriously, apparently someone had died from AMS crossing the Pass the week before and that day we saw one woman pass out and have to be carried over the pass by three porters and one of the super fit Aussie girls I'd met earlier had been absolutely fine until one hour from the pass and then was so violently ill she needed to take a yak to make it over the pass- crazy stuff! But equally there were some really inspiring stories like the older couple who were in their mid 60's at least who were moving slowly but determinedly. I think adrenalin was getting most people through.

The celebrations at the top were amazing- lots of photos of the plaque marking the altitude (which had to be dug out of the snow) lots of jumping shots (which take it out of you here let me tell you) and of course lots of group shots with the people you'd bonded with sharing this awesome experience. We had been so lucky with the weather- beautiful blue skies just made the white mountains look even more spectacular.

Still on a high we started our descent, which was, at least mentally, tougher than the ascent. You felt it should be over now but there was a LOT more work to be do- narrow ridges covered in ice and snow turned to dirt paths with loose stones so you needed all your concentration. The whole day was amazing and I can honestly say I enjoyed it all but the last hour was tough. We were all exhausted and the last section of the trail leading to Chabarbu was narrow paths of scree that just seemed never ending. By this point it was just Karen, Tali and I, both girls were feeling much better but we were all ready for the end. We collapsed in a heap for half an hour in Chabarbu at the foot of the mountain before devouring some food to get the energy for the final push - one hour to Muktinah, at this point I was walking in automatic. The sense of achievement when we arrived in Muktinah was incredible, such an epic day, so glad I did it and an experience I'll never forget!