We have to make the most of the cheap lobster here in Maine so we indulged ourselves at the McKay Public House again last night. I had lobster étoufée which was lobster pieces (plenty of them) in a spicy sauce with rice and Brad had sort of a macaroni cheese type dish with lobster but with a much fancier name. Anyway they were both yummy. When we go away, Brad says it is his turn to cook - so far he is doing a pretty good job.

It is another beautiful day today as we leave Bar Harbor heading inland towards Bethel which is located on the western side of Maine near the border of New Hampshire. Halloween is coming soon and lots of houses are already decked out with decorations - bright orange pumpkins, white feathery ghosts, scarecrows and witches. For such a religious part of the USA, I find this rather peculiar. These decorations together with election posters, American flags everywhere and autumn leaf arrangements, the towns we pass are very pretty. Jai's little furry friend Ele who has featured in a few of the photos, has to play in the leaves and pose on a pumpkin (see photos). After one minor glitch with the GPS, we finally arrive in Bethel to our B&B for the night - Austin's Holiday House - where I feel like I've stepped into my grandmother's house (if I had one). Nineteenth century house with 19th century furnishings including a canopied bed, washstand and even a chamber pot. Thankfully there is a proper toilet as well!! Our carpeted en-suite is only separated from our bedroom by a heavy curtain. The owners Laurence and Marcia are a somewhat eccentric elderly English couple who welcome us like long lost friends. They have been in the US since the 70s but sound like they arrived yesterday. Marcia has a little crafty gift shop where she makes and sells lots of things including her speciality - writing paper made out of sheep poo! Now that's recycling taken to the nth degree! They are charming hosts and we should have a very comfy and indulgent night.

The tiny town of Bethel plays host to thousands of "leef peepers" in the autumn, is a cool mountain escape for city dwellers when the high humidity of summer hits and is a mecca for skiers in the winter. We seem to have come in between the autumn and winter crowds. The leaves were at their peak over the last 2 weeks, so as of yesterday, the crowds have dimished considerably. I think we are the only people here at this 7 bedroomed B&B. But we don't mind though, as the scenery is still very pretty and we are sure to see more coloured foliage as we head south tomorrow.

Dinner is at Sudbury's, the local pub which has fine dining upstairs and in the basement is the bar, pub grub and a guest artist named Brad Hooper. De, you would love all the country/blues music he sings! And the best part is that we could still here ourselves talking while he played. Tonight's dinner is clam chowder (of course) and a salad.