Da Nang was a surprise; a very modern city that we were told had little corruption compared to the rest of Vietnam. The city is the third largest in Vietnam and set on the coast of the South China Sea and at the mouth of the Han River. A multitude of high rises line the pristine beach and huge growth is going on with the construction of high end resorts.

We spent a day at the beach which was lovely and had the usual vendors trying to sell their tourist wares. The water was warm, the sun was hot and the beach was a light brown that burnt the soles of your feet.

The main reason we visited Da Nang was to see the famous Dragon Bridge which breathes fire and water and is lit up for the public at 9pm on a Saturday and Sunday night for fifteen minutes. Unfortunately, it was quite a disappointment as it lasted perhaps five minutes. But the lights everywhere around the city including the boats on the river that the Vietnamise love so much, made up for it.

We took a hair-raising taxi to Hoi An which arrived in record time. Hoi An as other travellers had told us is a delight. Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam's most atmospheric and delightful town. Once a major port, it boasts the grand architecture and beguiling riverside setting that befits its heritage, and the 21st-century curses of traffic and pollution are almost entirely absent as they supposedly close off the old town to traffic.

We changed our accommodation mid-way as after having to walk several times a day to and from town in the stifling heat it all got a bit much. Thanks to Deb and Jack's recommendation we stayed at a rather nice plush hotel right on the edge of the old town. The only issue is that swimming pools in Vietnam are like a warm bath, so not so great for cooling down.

It was pure luck that we happened to time it when it was a full moon, which is when Hoi An holds their lantern festival; an age-old tradition that sees the entire old town shut off electricity and transform into a magical melange of flickering candles, multi-coloured lanterns and lively gatherings. Being low season, it was not excessively touristy so it was so nice to wander the streets in the cool of the evening. For the locals the night of the full moon is the time to honour their ancestors by setting up altars and offering fruit and flowers, burning incense and fake money outside homes and businesses in exchange for good luck and prosperity. Other entertainment included local street musicians playing traditional instruments, poetry readings, and a we found a stage blasting out various acts.

On the riverfront, we got accosted by locals selling cardboard lotus flower-shaped lanterns with a candle to be released on the river which of we did as supposedly it will bring happiness, luck and love.

We visited some of the major sights such as the Japanese Bridge, Museum of Trade Ceramics and Tan Hy House. Interesting to see the Japanese influence alongside the strong Chinese influences.

Hoi An is well known for its tailoring and I got a few things made at an exorbitant price! Hopefully they will not fall apart too quickly.

After a few days, it was back to Da Nang via taxi to fly to Nha Trang.