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Bangkok, Ko Tao and Ko Phangan Islands, Khao Sok National Park, Phuket and the Andaman Islands, Thai
Khlong Sok, Thailand
Firstly, apologies on the typos and grammar in my blogs. A little tricky when writing on my phone!
Another day, another flight with Air Asia. Just as well we weren't going from Australia! Very uneventful apart from the two hour wait in line to get our VISA exemption back into Thailand. We made a good choice of accommodation this time in Bangkok, right next to the metro and train station heading south. We have now classed ourselves as flashpackers, as opposed to backpackers. As we are getting more and more picky, although we will have to lower our standards for the next few countries I think.
We hopped on our train at 7pm the next night in second class sleeper and were pleasantly surprised on how good it was. Just as well we are short though! Our bunk beds had AC, sheets, blankets, pillows and a curtain; Luxury.
We made friends with a friendly Polish woman and settled down for the night. The train arrived at Chumphon at 4.15am and then we took a bus to the port.
The fast ferry took a couple of hours to Ko Tao island. The Thais I have to say, are so efficient and you can clearly see that they have it sussed with tourists being such a main thing for so much longer than other Asian countries like Laos and Cambodia. An opened back truck (as is common in the islands), took us to our diving resort on the southern coast of the island.
Ko Tao, once the baby of the Samui-Pha-Ngan-Tao trio, Ko Tao may still be the smallest in size but in many other ways it's grown up apparently. The island is consistently gaining popularity and going more upscale, but for now this jungle-topped cutie has the busy vibe of Samui mixed with the laid-back nature of Pha-Ngan. It is a renowned for its diving and has over 107 dive shops! For such a small island, you do wonder how it can be sustainable. It does have a slighter darker side. In the last couple of years, there hasn't been as many tourists due to a few foreigner homicides. Though from the sounds of it, this is because dumb tourists were arguing with a Thai and that is one thing, you just don't do.
We chose this island because ever since we were in the Gile Islands, Josh was keen to do a diving course. This island is the cheapest place in the world to get PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) certified. Of course, every second person asked me why I wasn't doing it as well, which came down to cost and a bad experience a few years ago. I was even analysed on why and maybe one day I will give it a go.
The open water course took four days to complete which involved theory exams and learning to use a regulator and BCD (buoyancy control device), in a pool before four dives in the sea down to 18 metres. While Josh was completing the course, I chilled out. Although it rained quite a bit. But I did do some snorkelling which was the best to date. Josh saw a stingray and some amazing fish. He was fortunate enough to be the only one on his course with a German instructor (just pure luck as there were a lot of Chinese there at the time so they had a Chinese speaking instructor). Now of course Josh is addicted to diving, so I am sure he will carry on with the programme to instructor level.
The it was off to Ko Pha Ngan. We arrived in torrential rain and headed to our accommodation which was a fantastic resort on the beach.
Ko Pha Ngan is renowned for its full-moon and now half-moon and black-moon parties, where over 30,000 people cramming one beach, partying their minds out for dusk to dawn. However, this month the parties were cancelled due to country preparing for the solemn cremation rites for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, which Thais take incredibly seriously. So the island was pretty quiet.
The staff at the resort were mainly Burmese (from Myanmar) and were incredibly funny. When we arrived, we were given a welcome drink which was a deep midnight-cobalt blue colour made from the butterfly pea flower and then when you add a squeeze of lime juice it changes to a rich violet. Pretty cool.
We soaked up the rays on Thong Yang beach, in between the rain, and met three nice guys from the Netherlands to talk to. After a few days of relaxing it was off on the ferry back to the mainland and then an hours bus ride to Surat Thani. Followed by a mini bus for a couple of hours to Khao Sok National Park. A long day,
The park is over 160 million years old, one of the world's oldest rainforests. Dramatic limestone formations and waterfalls cascade through juicy thickets drenched with rain and morning dew.
We stayed in a tree house at the southern end of the park. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite the tree house we were expecting as it wasn't very high of the ground but we did get to see fire-flies dancing around us at night.
The next day we took a one-day tour which started with an hours drive to the Cheow Lan Lake.
In 1982, the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand started to create the Rajjaprabha Dam to block the Klong Saeng River. It took about one year until they completely flooded the 165 square kilometres basin. To flood this large area, 385 families of Ban Chiew Lan village were resettled as the village was flooded.
Each family received 19 rai (7.2 acres) of rubber plantation as well as one rai (0.39 acres) for their private homes. As part of the compensation, the resettled people received 1,000 baht monthly per family. Resettlement drove the creation of basic public infrastructure, water supply systems, and public buildings such as schools, police station, medical centre, and community hall which were built by the Thai government.
A resettlement of animals took place by boat and helicopter to prevent them from drowning or starving on newly created islands. Many fish species died due to the stagnant water conditions. Those which survived adapted to their new environment.
Even though it is man-made it is absolutely stunning and looks as though it has been there for a 1000 years.
Our group took a long-tailed boat from near the dam through the misty rain to a floating raft village. We meandered through karst formations which reminded us of Halong Bay. On arrival at the floating village after lunch, some of group went off on a trek through the muddy wet jungle to go caving but they came back unable to go to the cave, as it was flooded. Quite a few had been attacked by leeches. I was glad we opted not to go! Instead we went kayaking on the lake which was lovely and we even got to see a wild monkey swinging about really close to us.
The next day we took a six-hour bus to Phuket.
Our hotel was great, it felt like an upscale hostel. We really struggled with what to do with our remaining days in Thailand as we were templed and beached out, so decided the best course of action would be to base ourselves in Phuket, re-charge and do some day trips. Plus we were watching our pennies as southern Thailand is a bit more expensive.
We didn't have high expectations of Phuket as we have heard all the stories. The people however are very laid back and being low season, it wasn't touristy.
We stayed in the old town area in Phuket city and meandered around the museums and Sino-Portuguese buildings while sampling the local food and visiting the Sunday Walking Street Market where the colourful buildings were lit up with multi coloured lights.
A lot of time was spent on planning for Greece and Morocco and sleeping.
We took a day trip to the Phi Phi Islands which are part of the Andaman Group off the South-East Coast.
A speed boat of about 30 people took us at high speed to Monkey Bay on Phi Phi Don where we saw a couple of monkeys hanging off the rocks before stopping off for some snorkelling which was pretty average. The sea colour however, was crystal clear and an amazing turquoise blue, nothing like I have ever seen before.
Lunch was then had at a beach in a local restaurant on the island.
We were then rushed off to Viking Cove, where locals harvest swiftlet birds' nests. Particularly prized in Chinese culture, these edible nests used in bird nest soup are believed to promote good health and to be specifically good for the skin. A local legend says that long time ago, sailors lost their boat during a storm and got stuck without food on one of the limestone islands lying in the mouth of the Phang Nga Bay. A cave located on this island was home to a colony of swiftlet, and the men could survive by eating their nests which gave them enough power to wait for rescue. The harvest of bird's nests is rather a risky job:; scaffolds are built with bamboo on which the hunters climb in the darkness to collect these precious items. Bird's nests are sold, on average, for US$2,500 per kilo!
It was then off to motor past Pi Leh Lagoon on Phi Phi Lae Island which is a karst island. Stunning.
Around the corner was the famous Mayer Bay which was used in the film 'The Beach'. It lived up to the film, even after 16 years it still looked the same. It was completely packed with people and boats which we had expected. We pulled up to the beach and spent about half an hour there and wandered around taking photos along with the hoards and had a quick dip. We wandered over to the other side of the island to check out Loh Samah Bay before again been whipped off due to the low tides, although no other boats seemed to be moving!
The last stop was on Khai Island for a couple of hours which was pretty annoying as the beach was very rocky with coral and it was baking hot, so you were forced to buy exorbitantly priced drinks to get some refuge from the sun as you couldn't really swim.
Not a bad trip overall and so glad to make it to Phi Phi after wanting to do this for years.
We went to Patong a couple of times. The beach is quite nice; lots of surf. The Walking Street is like Kuta in Bali on steroids. We used the phrase "Mai Ow Ka/Krup" (No thanks) a record amount of times. Especially for the 'Ping Pong' shows!
Tomorrow it's off to Singapore which we are quite looking forward to, for a change of pace.
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