We had an easy uneventful flight on Thai Lion to Chiang Mai. Just as well we flew as we heard from other people the train and bus were a nightmare.

The north of Thailand is lush green with undulating hills and Chiang Mai is a smallish city nestled amongst the landscape. The city is full of trees and hidden labyrinths of sois (alleys) with guest houses, restaurants and countless temples dotted throughout. The old city is a square which is surrounded by a moat which can trace its history back around 700 years. The city was founded by the Lanna people from China and Burma (Myanmar). It was an important cultural and religious site for Thailand as well as a trading hub.

We visited several temples, Si Phum, Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Pra Sing, Wat Phan Tao and the most sacred being Wat Prathat Doi Suthep which is on top of a mountain north of the city after climbing 200 or so odd steps. Unfortunately it was raining and smoggy so not a great view of the city. Josh was templed out by then understandably.

Chiang Mai was definitely more laid back than Bangkok and was a nice respite after the hectic chaos.

As we arrived on a Sunday we headed to the Sunday Walking Market which is where an entire street cutting across the old town is full of local crafts and street food. It was hot and steamy and packed.

One of the highlights that we had been looking forward to was going to an elephant sanctuary which we pre-booked after a bit of research. We chose the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary which was a good choice. We had read about not to ride an elephant as not only are elephants not like horses as their spine is not designed to be ridden but they are not treated well and chained up. The sanctuary looks after elephants that were previously used for work such as for logging so some have a hole in their ear where hooks are used to make them drag logs.

What a great day that was just hanging out with them, washing and feeding them. So intelligent and so gentle. A magical experience. The babies were so cute and so playful. The ride to the sanctuary took a couple of hours in the back of a truck which was a bit hair raising at times going down steep mountains.

After staying in an impersonal hotel for a couple of nights we decided that we would down grade and hopefully meet some fellow travellers. We stumbled on Ma Guesthouse run by Ma who owns a salon underneath as well as another salon and Guesthouse. What a treasure she is. Continually going out of her way for us always with a smile and a laugh. Free fruit, water, toast, tea and coffee all day! Josh even got a fantastic haircut complete with not one but four washes beforehand and three afterwards, not to forget to mention the head massage.

We met up with some lovely people who had been staying there for quite a few weeks chilling out or completing massage courses. Nirm from Birmingham took us to a temple where he was learning massage so we got a Thai massage for an hour for NZD6. We were a bit hesitant about getting one as Josh had a bad experience in Bangkok where he was pummelled. This was not the case with this one, although l still prefer the Balinese method. Josh thought it was great though.

After several days it was time to make our way to Chiang Rai on the way to Laos. We took a VIP bus which took a few hours and was pretty luxurious with snacks, air con, toilet and reclining seats.

Chiang Rai is a smaller less touristy version of Chiang Mai. I dragged Josh to one temple which was very special. Wat Rong Khun reminded me of Gaudi's Sangrada Familia. Chalermchai Kositpipat is a multi media artist who has done some really amazing sculptures and paintings which are exhibited there.

Another highlight was hanging with about thirty cats in a coffee shop. Kind of weird but great to get my cat fix.

We took a public bus up to Chiang Khong which is next to the mighty river Mekong. This was for a night before we went to the border and crossed into Laos for our next adventure.