I flew to Axum I just couldn't face another 12hr bus ride to Shire, then overnight then short hop to Axum so I flew. My checkin bag got ransacked between check in and collection, lucky there is nothing of any value in it.

The Africa hotel is the best room I have had so far. Big room, great bathroom with hot water, tv and dodgy internet. I'm up at 4am trying to post this.

I went for walk yesterday and got followed buy 8 kids wanting me to buy them a "footaball". Of course I told them to fu#k off but they persisted for about 1/2hr. I am so over the kids here. In the south it was "photo, 5birr" in the north it is "hello, give me money" I'm so over it. They see me coming and run across the road to hit me for money.

The tout scrum at the airport was incredible. I was the only independent traveller on the plane so I was the prime target. It is not to get you to their holes the big ticket is the tours. If they can get me on a way overpriced tour it is payday. I have been quoted $100 for bus to Mekele, I can get foot $8. The Danakil should be about $500 for 4 days and I have been quote $400 for one night. Even local tours vary from 2000birr to 200birr.

Everyone comes here for 2 things, stelae and the Ark of the Covenant. The stelae are big columns of granite, carved and standing upright. They are really a form of headstone around the tombs of some of the rulers. The biggest one, which has fallen down, weighs over 700 ton. The smaller ones still standing are over 200ton. There are a couple of open tombs but you can only get into one.

I tried to get into the churches but they are closed. What if I want to pray? They seem to keep the churches locked here or when they are using them I can't go in. Again what if I want to pray? I'm going back today to have another look and see if I can get in.

I finally got into the churches today, Sunday of all days. The big new one is impressive but I noticed there is not much furniture in it? They must spend a lot of time on their knees. Then the dinky museum? I'm not much for museums but this one was not bad. It had lots of old crowns fron the old kings that were pretty interesting. Then I went to go to the old section and was stopped by and angry bloke with an AK47. I gave him a mouth full of lip and headed back to get a refund. I complained to the three old blokes that sold me a ticket, you have to pay to go to these churches. WhAt if I wanna pray? Anyway one old bloke took me back and there was a couple of monks coming from where I wanted to go. One was VERY important cos everyone wanted to kiss his cross. I said they not the problem the w***er with the gun is the problem. ( remember they don't speak English and I don't speak ahmeric) old mate spoke to one of the monks and he agreed to take me through. Well it took a while but finally I got into the old church and it was very impressive. I have no idea what the monk was saying but I was just looking around. In the end he held his hand out for baksheesh so I had to cough up another 100 to get out. On the way out he started unwrapping something that was wrapped in about a dozen blankets. I got excited, I thought he was gonna show me the Arc of the Covenant? Turned out to be an old book. The pages were goat skin and it was in unbelievable condition. I think it was a bible, by the way he kissed it. As for the Arc of the Covenant, I wasn't allowed into the church where it is supposed to be, but no one else is either. Apparently there are only a couple of people allowed in there at all. It turned out my guide was the 2IC of the whole shooting match, shame I couldn't understand a word he said.
I'm staying here again tomorrow then to Mekele, overnight, then to Woldia and Lalebela, my last town in the north. You might not hear from me in the next couple of days they are a 6 and 9 hour bus trip.