Samarkand is proving to be not the most attractive city but not the most unattractive. Undoubtedly the countless Mausolea are beautiful and the Registan - the tilting, 15th-century Medressa - is breathtaking. People have been nothing but charming, interested and welcoming. But the architecture of the fairly modern city that has developed around the historic monuments is rather unexciting. Neither unpleasant nor attractive or even stylish. Very plain.

We are still reeling from yesterday's exciting visit to the world's most boring museum and desperately hoping that nothing knocks it off its perch.

Off for some chill time. Adios.