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Auckland has many similarities with Sydney. A huge harbour that is criss crossed continually with ferries, a commercial port right on the city's edge, a naval dockyard, streets that head in random directions, 19th century architecture and a skyline that is dominated by an imposing communications tower. None of which is a bad thing.
My Airbnb is in Queen St, which is the heart of the city and therefore a great place from which to head out. Like most large cities I find one of the best ways to experience them is to just wander and see what you come across. Unfortunately one of the most notable things is the number of beggars on the street. But there seems to be a theme. They don't look "down and out", they all sit on an upturned plastic drink crates and they all use a paper coffee cup to collect any donations. I can't help feeling that all, or most of them, probably return to a home each night as well.
The wharf area is quite bustling. The Sea Princess has docked and is disgorging thousands of passengers for what I think will be a brief opportunity to see as much as they can in a short space of time. In quite a contrast at the next berth a car ship is unloading thousands of cars. It's an interesting mix of "trades".
Undoubtedly the Skytower is the most visible building in the city and also the place where you can get the best 360 degree view, 220 metres above street level. And with my Victorian Seniors card scoring me a $5 discount, how can I not go up for a look! Fortunately it's a relatively clear day and as a result the view is quite amazing. It does put into perspective how Auckland is situated on a narrow strip of land and is bordered on both sides by water. Like many other harbour side cities Auckland has also recognised the value of water and is in the process of turning former industrial harbour side land into retail and residential areas.
My walking leads me to one of the strangest and yet peaceful cemeteries I have ever seen. On the edge of the CBD is a cemetery that dates from the 19th century. As was usual back then it is divided into sections based on religion - Catholic, Jewish, Protestant. But two things strike me. It's located in a very treed area, almost like a mini forest. The graves are old and many are in poor condition, and they seem to be located on a random basis amongst the trees. The other thing is that a motorway has been built through the cemetery and there are actually graves located underneath the raised roadway. In some instances it would be virtually impossible to get to them. It smacks of a lack of respect.
My Airbnb host has suggested a visit to Devonport, which is a small suburb, about a 15 minute ferry road cross the harbour. This place has a long history, both Maori and British. The dominant feature is a place called North Head, which the Maori used as a "pa" (fortress) and the British did the same. It provides the perfect location from which to defend the Auckland harbour. Today is it a public park but there are still many old gun emplacements and tunnels, all connected by good walking tracks and information boards. It's like a museum and public park rolled into one. From here you also have a great view back toward the Auckland CBD and surrounding suburbs. There are some substantial houses here, both old and new, and certainly has that feeling of being a sought after place to live. 15 minutes from the city, but almost a world away in terms of traffic and people.
I time my ferry ride back just right. As we arrive at the dock on the city side it starts to rain, so that seems like a perfect point to head home.
And so my time in NZ comes to an end. Almost 17 weeks during which I have literally travelled the length and breadth of the country. Not sure why it has taken me so long to get here but it has lived up to its reputation. However, the journey goes on and Mexico awaits.
- comments
Alexis McPhee Great read Doug. It is such a beautiful country. I have seen most of it but I will go back and read all of your blog. Great to get a different perspective.