Welcome to Dunedin! What better way to get a feel for a city and its culture than head off to a rugby game. So 2 hours after arriving in this beautiful city I was sitting in the Platinum section of the Forsyth Barr Stadium to watch the local team, The Highlanders, take on an unfortunate Aussie team called the Brumbies. Not surprisingly it was a very pro Highlanders crowd, in fact I can't recall seeing a single Brumbies supporter. You know a city is proud of its heritage when the pre game entertainment is a Scottish Highland Pipe Band (checkout the video) and the onfield MC is dressed in a kilt and full Scottish regalia. And the fact that the Otago University is a central part of this city is brought home by the 300-400 uni students who are carefully marshalled in the stand at one of the ground. They virtually sang through the entire game, Sweet Caroline and 500 Miles, were two of my favourites. And judging from the amount of security at that end of the ground I'm guessing they are also up for some hijinks when the mood strikes them. They certainly added some atmosphere to the event. The Highlanders won comfortably and everyone went home happy.

Dunedin has chalked up a few firsts in its time. At one time the capital of NZ, the first university and the first tramways system to name a few. The university has over 20,000 students and is the largest employer in the city. It is very much a uni town. it's difficult to distinguish the students from the backpackers who are also here in large numbers. There are a couple of excellent museums in Dunedin, the Toitu Otago Settlers Museum and the Otago Museum. The first essentially deals with the settlement of Dunedin and the immediate Otago region and the second is more a general museum covering the usual topics you would expect to see. Both were well worth a visit and provided a great background about the city and its environs. The Dunedin Railway Station is reputedly the most photographed building in NZ. And it's no wonder. A huge, visually striking building, inside and out, that effectively defines one side of the CBD area. Across from it is the former Dunedin Prison, built in the 1860's and used up until 2007. Walking through here was a bit of an eye opener. It is virtually untouched since the day it was shut. It's almost as if on the last day they simply walked out the door and closed it behind them. Notes and instructions were still on whiteboards, the kitchen and laundry equipment was still in place. Prison tours like this are a subtle reminder of why it's a good idea to stay on the right side of the law.

A few minutes drive from the centre of the city is the start of the Otago Peninsula. This place has it all. Stunning scenery, cliff top drives, bird and sea life, some of which is found nowhere else in NZ, or the world for that matter and NZ's only castle. Larnach Castle was built by an Australian born banker, businessman and politician. To call it grand is an understatement. Unfortunately it didn't bring him a lot of happiness. Three wives, estranged children and bankruptcy came to a head when he shot himself in Parliament House. And amazingly his son did exactly the same thing a few years later. Another claim to fame for Dunedin is that it has the steepest street in the world, as verified by the Guiness Book of Records. In places, Baldwin St is almost at a 45 degree angle and for much of it the footpath is actually steps. It's a definite tourist destination but one of those things you just have to do. And no visit to Dunedin would be complete without a visit to Speights Brewery. First established in Dunedin in the late 19th century, it promotes itself as the beer of the South, and yet no one seems to drink it. The free, help yourself tastings at the end was certainly one of the best finishes to a tour that I have ever had.

There is a long history of Chinese involvement in the Dunedin and Otago region. Like Australia, many Chinese came during the gold rush period of the 1860's. They went on to become prominent business owners and public figures in the community. As a result Shanghai is a sister city to Dunedin and through that the establishment of a Chinese Garden came about. Chinese gardens seem to have an ability to block out the rest of the world once you enter through the gates. The one in Dunedin is no exception. Built in China and then disassembled and transported to Dunedin, it is one of only of 3 authentic Chinese gardens outside of China. The peace and serenity that dominates inside the garden is a pleasant change from the city activity on the other side of the wall.

My time in Dunedin comes to an end today. Tomorrow I'm heading further south to Invercargill for a few days, before making my way up the west coast. The temperature and wind chill is certainly making me wish that I had packed some thermals. But I didn't, so I guess I'll just have to harden up! My decision to rent a car has certainly paid off. My little Nissan Tiida is doing the job just nicely, and at $18/day it's very cheap transport!