Well I ended the last blog saying that arranging transport from Yerevan to Tumanyan could be interesting. Well it was. We had asked at the Information centre about getting a bus to Alaverdi. I think they misunderstood what we asked and we misinterpreted what they told us. We arrived at the bus station expecting to catch bus 259, whch we thought left at regular intervals. We were wrong. There was no bus 259 and the bus we needed apparently wasn't leaving for another 4 hours. As is the nature of the locals the lady we were dealing with wanted to help. She headed outside and a few minutes later came back with a young Iranian guy who could speak both Russian and English. (he was amazed to find out that John and I had met in Iran 5 years earlier) He confirmed our bus wasn't leaving for 4 hours (and it was then a 3-4 hour trip). But the lady could arrange a private taxi, which would be more comfortable and would be here in a few minutes. Cost - $70. We opted for the taxi. Where else can you get a taxi to turn up in a couple of minutes for a 6 hour return trip? So began one of the most interesting, albeit unsettling, rides of my life. Overtaking into on coming traffic, overtaking on blind corners, travelling so close to trucks that at times the bonnet of our car was almost under the truck tray. And the best was losing control on a tight bend to such an extent that he induced an incredible amount of tyre squeal as we slid sideways. The driver kept making the sign of the cross and i was even throwing in a few Hail Marys myself. In the end I just lay my head back and closed my eyes. There didn't seem to be any point in watching what was unfolding. Probably better not to know. All this time John was seriously regretting his decision to sit in the front. Finally after almost 3 hours of living on the edge we arrived at our accommodation in Tumanyan. It's a little village located in the Debed Canyon in northern Armenia. We were the only people in the guest house and the location was amazing. Breakfast and dinner on the terrace, overlooking the river, was a nice way to start and finish each day. After dinner on the first night we decided on a walk. Through the village we ended up back on the main road, and in a virtual roadside position was a bar, complete with tables and umbrellas. Too good to walk past. A group of 4 locals welcomed us with handshakes and hellos. 2 cold draught beers later we were on our way, to another round of handshakes and goodbyes. The hospitality and friendliness of people throughout this region never ceases to amaze. The canyon is a good place for walking so next day we headed off. After an uphill walk of about 20 minutes we came to the 12th century Kobar Monastery built on nothing more than a rock outcrop. Although in disrepair, but with obvious restoration work under way, the frescos throughout the various buildings were amazing. Despite having little protection from the weather their condition was remarkably good. The other surprise was the rather large pig which appeared to have made its home in one of the chapel buildings. From this elevated position the view down the canyon was fantastic. The following day we caught a mini bus into the nearby town of Alaverdi. Close by are 2 world heritage monasteries at Haghpat and Sanahin. Haghpat sits high at the top of the canyon and has commanding views. The style, structure and size of the various buildings are quite imposing. Sanahin is of a very similar style but smaller. The buildings have a very austere presence. Made from raw stone, the only decorations are intricate carvings in the stone. The only colour comes from the soot of the candles that are lit by worshippers. For a change of pace we then paid a brief visit to the Mikoyan Museum. It chronicled the life of two brothers from Sanahin. One was a leading Politburo member for around 60 years and the other was the co-designer of the MiG aeroplane. Certainly a part of history of which I was totally unaware. An uneventful taxi ride back to Tumanyan (after much bargaining) signalled the end of our time in Armenia. Tomorrow we head to Georgia. Could be another interesting day negotiating transport and a border crossing. Stay tuned!