6th December 2006

Following a painless 11 hr flight on EVA we arrived in Bangkok at 4.40pm so the sun was dropping and the clouds rolling in. The Amari Watergate was a very smart hotel on Petchaburi with great views of the city from the 28 floor. As we set off for dinner the heavens opened and so our first baptism of "rip off Bangkok" began - jumped in a taxi to the restaurant of our choice but were told we would have to book!- wrong- take us to a fish restaurant. It all seemed great fun as the taxi pulled into the fish market restaurant where we chose large prawns & lobster. The meal was awful and my eyes are still watering from the bill, but it's always best to get the con artist tricks out of the way early as you soon shape up.

From here we headed off in a tuk tuk to the Calypso a crazy transvestite revue club that was great fun but I had to drag Ann away before she took a ladyboy home. Back to the hotel for a few drinks till the early hours with great live music.

7th December 2006

Next morning we went the TAT office to book our onward trip to Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya, Chaing Mai and on into Laos to Louangphrabang (8 days 470 pounds). Feeling very satisfied we set off to explore Bangkok taking a long boat trip on the Chao Phraya River that gives a great insight to the importance of the major rivers in the area and the sheer size of the city. Being the day after the Kings 80th birthday the city is covered in large posters, yellow flags and garlands everywhere-they really do love their king you will never hear a bad word. Arriving at the Grand Palace we found it supposedly closed but maybe this was another con and we set off by tuk tuk 50 baht= 80p for a two hour trip to the Golden Mount that was over 450 steps high a beautiful tranquil temple plus the Temple of a 1000 Buddhas that was under going refurbishment and was splendid. Here we met a very nice man who thinks he owns Red Bull and wanted to help us plan our holiday- right- "don't get conned again". Back off to the Grand Palace we resisted jewellery stores, tailors shops and the likes and escaped unscarred.

The Grand Palace is a stunning introduction to the twin themes of Thai life: Buddhism and Royalty there are over 100 mansions, halls,pavilions and temples- after 3 hours "totally templed out" Back to hotel to collect shoes to find a street cobbler and then an hours foot massage.

A civilised dinner was followed by visit to Patpong the "red light district" with a large market. Ann bought a beautiful Cartier watch that stopped 24hrs later- we resisted the sex shows as the area was very sad but had a drink in Boys Street as Ann thought it would be ladyboys- no dear, "boys mean boys'- great people watching.

8th December2006

Left hotel at 7am for 3hr journey to Kanchanaburi and the Death Railway war graves cemetary where over 18,000 English,Australian & Dutch soldiers are laid to rest - a very humbling and emotional experience.The number of civillian casualties are unknown as they were often l4eft in the jungle but is thought to exceed 75,000 souls. Then to the Bridge Over the River Kwai and museum followed by a ride on the train for an hour heading north to where we would be based overnight. In the afternoon we visited the Tiger Temple where the monks care for injured Tigers and other more domestic animals (horses, boar, cows) Into Tiger Canyon you find a dozen particularly well fed and tranquil tigers  some free others tethered to their stone water pots. devoid of hats,scarves, sunglasses and jewellery you are taken in silence to the tigers and sit by them and stroke them whilst you have your photo taken - pretty crazy but not to be missed. Back to the river we stopped by a small waterfall to cooloff before getting back to the floating restaurant for an early simple dinner. Rucksacks & backpackers climb into the long boat to be taken at breakneck speed in total darkness up river to the raft hotel. Here we were introduced to " ladyboy beer" Chang Light 6% or "gentleman beer" Chang 7.4% and a sing song to guide Sam on guitar and a full blown party with Marc's wonderful I-pod resulting in the start of "a new cold war" when we were asked to turn off the music at 8pm, the miserable Russians lost and were sent packing with the message "We are on holiday" Off to bed some time much later slightly stoned.

9th December 2006

Woke with terrible hangovers to have a simple breakfast at the river hotel - the Russians were not speaking. Off to the highest waterfall in the area where we climbed up a steep path past 7 pools to the highest point over a mile up, that was stunningly beautiful. On the way down we spyed a family of monkeys and swam in the 5th pool that quickly washed the cobwebs away, then back to the bottom for a quick beer and then feeling ready to face the day. Back to the river for lunch and to bid farewell to our guides before setting off to return to Bangkok. Here we caught the train to Ayutthaya that was an interesting 2hr journey in open windowed carraiges. Across the road from the station was our hotel the Ayutthaya Riverside that had a floating restaurant. The lemon and garlic Seabass was superb the best meal so far. Off to bed.

10th December 2006

Had a late breakfast that was a new experience - curry, noodles & spaghetti - then took to the street to visit the many temples the morning heat began to build very quickly so the shelter of the flower and plant market was particularly welcome. Ayutthaya, a World Heritage Site was once the greatest city in Asia, and Thailand's capital for more than 400 years. Wat Phra Mahathat datesc from the 14th century and is the biggest and most significant temple complex, across the road is Wat Ratchaburana that was built on the cremation site of two kings and still contains their ashes here in chedis. The next couple of hours was spent in other equally beautiful temples before taking a tuk tuk back to the river and a ferry across to our hotel and lunch. A restful siesta folowed before catching the overnight sleeper train to Chaing Mai. The first class accomodation was great with simple tasty food served enroute, we would recommend this little luxury to anyone travelling by train.