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4am 22 December Hanoi very upset as computer crashed and lost previous entry whilst updating.
16th December 2006
Taken to Thai border check point to cross over to Laos in a long boat and the task of passport control and obtaining local currency. Then waiting around before picking up the slow boat that was not all it was made out to be as it is the public transport system and very overcrowded, great fun all the same as we drift off down the Mekong river through thick jungle and past small villages lining the banks.Health & Safety does not exist in these parts and the only warning of danger ahead was one of the boatmen holding up a sign "Beware Rapids Ahead" that we all found hilarious and a great photo opportunity. After a long day we arrive at Prabang about 6:30pm to be met by a crowd of porters jostling for bags to assist us in our ascent of the sheer river bank to our prebooked accommodation that is the hotel from hell. Dinner was OK and the location spectacular overlooking the now dusky river, we joined Kiera & Graham a couple from Leeds who had been travelling for the past 8 months. Followed by a stroll through the village we have a change of heart and book into clean new hotel for what turned out to be a great nights sleep as the lights go off at 9:30pm.
17th December 2006
We rise to a mist shrouded view of the river and jungle beyond that is very reminiscent of Gorillas in the Mist type setting. Todays boat was a much larger and slightly more comfortable version for are long journey down river to Luang Prabang. Along the way we called at many small villages to pick up passengers and saw tree trunks being brought from the jungle for transportation down stream to the saw mills and other locals bringing their catch of squirrels, possum, deer and many other creatures for passengers and crew to buy for their supper. As we neared our destination we passed the first of the sheer rock faces rising hundreds of feet from the river to the sky above-a breath taking sight. Docking at around 6:30pm we joined K & G to check out the TAM Tam Garden Hotel that they had prebooked and quickly had our accomadation soughted before setting off through the night market fore the Laung Prabang Bakery for dinner, a decidely western menu as we all wanted some normal food for a change. A little bit of Everton v Chelsea before retiring for an early night.
18th December 2006
Left Ann in bed while I set off to rearrange our flights to Hanoi that proved to be a hoot as whilst trying to locate the Lao Air office I enquired of a tuk tuk driver who said he would take me for $1, it turned out to be only 50 yards down the road. Anyway job done I returned to the hotel to collect Ann to set about exploring this wonderful town/city, we strolled along by the river for coffee at Galanga a stunning new cafe/gallery with a style that would be all the fashion in London if you could pick it up and move it. On wards through the narrow streets we arrived at The Elephant an open fronted colonial style restaurant serving French influenced cuisine that is one of the must visit places in town for a quite & relaxing lunch. This place is wonderful the best we have visited so far and the quite side streets give way to the main street with the museum, many temples, restaurants & shops that moves at such a leisurely pace you cannot help but feel totally chilled out. We enroll Ann for a cookeery course at Ten Ten Pruang a restaurant/school where Jamie Oliver is supposed to have visited in days gone by. We pass through the night market as it is being set up in the late afternoon and soon see the stalls and the wares look completely different in day light and have the chance to be more selective in our limited purchases as having to carry everything for the next six weeks we have to be controlled. Joined K & G for drinks at Villa Santis in the garden bar with its striking trees and plants a mini jungle in the town before dinner at Ten Ten Pruang.
19th December 2006
We rise early to get Ann to her cookery class, taking breakfast at the Scandinavian Bakery we see this little child sifting through the rubbish for empty plastic bottles that the locals recyle to make a few Kip. As she got close to us we saw this beautiful child with a smile to melt your heart and both commented how easy it is to see how people ie Madonna want to give children like her a home and chance in life. When we get to down load some pictures you will see what we mean. Spent the morning exploring downtown by the river to the west before settling into an internet cafe to update the journal whilst Ann joined her class.
Her morning was spent visiting the market to see the local produce required for the recipes to be produced before returning to the kitchen and all sharing in various tasks to create 5 local dishes. By the time I arrived at 2pm they had eaten their creations and all look very proud having received their certifcates. We spent the rest of the afternoon strolling around the peninsula before resting at the local wine bar for a bottle of Chateau Moulin 1999 that @ $13 was great value and nectar after the other wines we had so far on the trip. Here we met Linda & Gary( Richard Gere lookalike) from Seattle and later went on for dinner at 3 Negas where after a couple more bottles of wine we all felt very mellow. A shared tuk tuk to the hotel was the order of the night as no one was capable of walking too far.
20th December 2006
Up early to see the monks we said are good byes to K & G who were departing for their return to Bangkok for Christmas. Every morning at 6:30am the monks walk through the streets with their begging bowls to receive food from the locals and tourists as is the tradition. They receive their food in this way and the eat at 7am and later at 12 noon to then go until the next morning before eating again. A very colourful sight in their orange robes walking in groups of 20 or 30 monks from the different temples passing each other at crossroads through out the town for about half an hour each morning. It was good to be up so early so that we could make the most of our last morning before flying to Hanoi. Nothing was to run that smooothly for when we arrived at the airport we were told there was a 5 hour delay. Jumped in a tuk tuk and back to town and for a bit of retail theraphy and then a relaxing massage at the Lotus Spa before hitting the wine bar for another lovely bottle of wine while we watched the world go by for a couple of hours. Back to the airport at 6pm the flight left at 6:40pm for Hanoi and one hell of a culture shock. The taxi ride into the city took about half an hour and arriving at the hotel we had booked on the internet we found it to be full. They quickly arranged another hotel ( Green Park Hotel) for one night and promised us a room for the next 2 days.
21 December 2006
We laid in and had a leisurely breakfast before checking out and moving back to the Solevoy Hotel in the French Quarter. We spent a hour arranging our travel plans for Halong Bay and SePa with the very helpful receptionists before heading off in a taxi for the Ho Chi Minn Mausoleum and Museum. We didn't see his embalmed body as they only open in the morning before putting him back on ice each day and we didn't really fancy that anyway. The museum was interesting but one really does need to check up on the history of the country before hand to fully appreciate it. Off to the Old Quarter we could not be prepared for what we were about to experience " Traffic from Hell"- congestion on such a scale and a free for all that you have to see to believe. Bravely I took Ann's arm and walked slowly into the traffic and "surprise surprise" it just goes around you and miraclously you get to the other side.
A trip to the Water Puppet Theatre is a must whilst in Hanoi so we had been told - had to be one of the funniest experiences I can think of- but should not be done on "shrooms". Dinner in the hotel proved to be a bit of a disappointment considering the restaurant is so highly rated but I think we just chose the wrong food! A late evening stroll around the district to find a bar failed miserably as it appears all the action is in the Old Quarter- but did we need the hassle " I think not" so off to bed
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