Territory Wildlife Park and on to Mary River - 24th,25th & 26th August

Although probably not the best time of year we headed out 50km to the Territory Wildlife Park. Being right at the end of the dry season we did not expect that it would look like the photos in the tourist brochures. We learnt from our mistake last year when we went to Karumba in the dry season and Trish had been telling me how green and swampy it was, all the snakes, cane toads and crocodiles. Not! Dry season means just that dry. Having said that we enjoyed our visit to Karumba just as we enjoyed our visit to the Territory Wildlife Park. Trish freaked and screamed after the Taipan that had been eyeing her off suddenly struck out at her and hit the glass of the enclosure, and we both delighted in seeing the fresh water stingrays and the fresh water sawfish. Arrived at 10am and left at 4:00pm so there was still plenty to see and do even in the dry.

Back to the caravan park and the hard drinking, smoking and swearing Darwin Bogans who live permanently in the park along with a rabble of uncaring messy foreign backpackers. It didn't seem to matter how much the park people tried to keep the ablutions and camp kitchen clean, it was soon turned to messy squalor. Next morning and leaving day I couldn't get to the fridge in the camp kitchen as it was all locked up. Luckily opened just before our leaving and it turned out it had been locked because of the rabble of uncaring messy foreign backpackers playing up the night before. Great idea, punish everyone because of the few! Dumb! The park in Brisbane who made a group like that pack up and leave in the middle of the night had the right idea. Punish the culprits and they will think twice before doing that again.

25th August and on to Mary River Retreat. Sadly we had heard the night before that a young man had been taken by a croc somewhere on the Mary River but no other details. Turns out it was at the Mary River Retreat where we were booked in. First plan was to stop at the "Windows to the Wetlands" centre but that turned out to be shut with no indication of when it was open. On hindsight the Rangers were all probably involved in the unfolding croc drama just down the road at Mary River. Trish had booked us in for the Jumping Crocodile Tour just down the road at the Adelaide River so it just meant that we would get there a bit earlier and kill some time over a coffee.

The power and size of these primitive beasts was to mean even more to us upon arrival at Mary River. A steady stream of huge crocs glide effortlessly out to meet the tour boat and with a little encouragement of a couple of pork chops hanging off a string they were encouraged to show how high they could rise up out of the water. All the great commentary by the guide about how a croc stalks their prey and kills it was to become very poignant.

The first sign you see after turning into the Mary River Retreat is a big croc danger sign and NO SWIMMING. The lady at reception explained that there had been a death and did we still want to stay. With that out of the way we chose a beautiful shady site and set up camp (a safe distance from the water's edge). Police and Ranger boats were patrolling the river and a shot rang out as they ended up killing 4 crocs. As the story gradually unfolded, a group of people were camping for a 30th birthday do and two young Darwin men decided to swim across the river and back. That section is the territory of the 4.7m dominant male crocodile. Other tourists had photographed the croc on the far bank not long before. Once across and after a little breather it was time to swim back, one didn't make it and was taken by the croc in front of a lot of onlookers including children. What they were thinking when making the decision to swim across I have no idea but they were from the NT and should have known better. A young man dies, friends and family will be devastated and onlookers were traumatised. There was time for the owner of the retreat to shoot the croc while it still had the body in his mouth but he was told he would get a $70,000 fine if he did so. By the time the so called "Authorities" arrived one and a half hours later both the croc and body were gone.

Once again the park owner was ignored when he said he could show them exactly where the croc would take the body, as the "Authorities" knew better. One very bitter and frustrated Park owner poured out his heart to us while the "Authorities" went on a croc shooting spree.

Day three and up early for a walk and on the way back police boats returned with what we found later was the body of the victim. Found up in the area where the owner had suggested and three other crocs shot as well. Go figure! The park owner rests a bit easier now as he was so worried that the time delay meant that the body would not be found and family would be even more traumatised.

We had seen the power and speed of these magnificent creatures and had experienced the need to strictly observe all the warning signs. Travelling like we do we see tourists doing dumb things and this rates up there with the worst of them. Perhaps a Coronial Inquiry will shed some light on it all sometime in the future.

Saddened Dave.