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Why, Sometimes I've Believed as Many as Six Impossible Things Before Breakfast
Corn Island, Nicaragua
We're four hours into our bus journey and have just recently crossed the border from Nicaragua into Honduras. We've covered a lot of ground in the past two days, and are slowly starting to get back into the swing of moving around. I think we're both a little sad and low from leaving the island. It's truly one of the most wonderful places I've been, and for the first time this trip is somewhere I'm certain I'll return to.
The flight to Big Corn Island was quick and easy. It was about 40 minutes from Managua to Bluefields, where we stopped for a total of ten minutes, and then another 15 or so minutes over to Big Corn. We had breakfast by the pier and then took a panga (a small "passenger" boat) to Little Corn.
Little Corn Island has no motorized vehicles and no roads. There are a few paved paths around the island which, as the name indicates, is small. We walked about 15 minutes from the docks on the West side across to the white sand beach on East. We stayed in a little casita, a wooden shack with beds, a cold shower and a hammock on the porch -exactly the same as the beach bungalows we used to visit in Thailand.
We woke up with the sun and generally went to bed not long after it. Days were spent lounging on the beach and in the water and just generally day-dreaming. We'd take breaks from that to go eat, and frequented a little restaurant called Tranquilo (which it was) for happy hour and sunset each evening. Ola had lots of fresh, cheap lobster, and I will admit that I tried it and actually sort of liked it. There's something about fish and lobster being hauled in only hours earlier that makes it far more palatable, even for we, the non-seafood eaters of the world.
There was one afternoon that Ola decided she would try her hand at diving. I, having tried years ago, was already aware of my inability to equalize the pressure in my ears and decided to give it a miss. She came back later that day very disconcerted. As a result of discomfort with the process, she was unable to push herself to go. Anyone who knows Ola, knows that something as petty as unease or fear, only strengthens her resolve to accomplish. Two days later she completed her first successful dive, and is already making plans for her next.
We also had a fear that I needed to overcome- sharks. So we booked a snorkelling trip around the reef that sits just off the East coast of the island. They took us out in the boat and tossed us in the water. The water was rough and the waves were extremely big, making it a difficult swim, especially for people not accustomed to wearing flippers. I glued myself to the guide, Captain Charlie, and off we went. It was beautiful and was saw a lot of amazing things- a turtle, stingray, barracuda, many colourful fish, and yes, nurse sharks (let's ignore the fact that they don't bite and give kudos where due)! I managed to keep myself in the water and not race for the boat. Aside from feeling a little ill from swallowing too much sea water, it was wonderful and I'm looking forward to more reef exploration in Belize.
The only other "site" on the island was a little tower they called the "lighthouse" that we climbed for views of the entire island. About half way up the ladder I realized that I have developed a mild fear of heights, but it wasn't enough to stop me, so up I went. It was a beautiful place to watch the sun setting, and really gave a true concept of how small the island really is.
We were there for an entire week, and if we'd had more time available, would have stayed several more. I believe there are very few places left on Earth that are still so unspoiled. It reminded me very much of Thai islands from 15 to 20 years ago. I imagine there are still a few more years before this one is also tainted by over-tourism, so my suggestion is this- get there quick!!! It's worth the journey!!
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