I opened my eyes and glanced around the unfamiliar empty bedroom. My roommates had decided last night to take the overnight bus to Siem Reap for the weekend. They packed up at eleven last night and I had the whole room to myself the first night. I popped out of bed, turned on my iPhone and blasted my favorite music as I packed for my weekend trip. Sython said to only bring a small bag, so I unhooked my mini backpack from my main pack. I opened the armoire and began pulling clothes out for the trip.

I shook my head as I packed. Here I was in Cambodia, just arriving and already leaving for the next adventure. To wake up and not have to be on conference calls, read through reports; be on a strict schedule- it was such a treat to do the complete opposite. This is what I looked forward to every year. To be removed from everything that you find important, only sometimes to realize throughout the process that maybe some things aren't so important. I thought about all those mornings at work I would be stressed or overwhelmed, and all those feelings felt light years away. It almost felt silly to think of myself that way while now being in this carefree moment, using a toilet with no seat, showering in cold water and having the bare minimum of everything. The only thing that mattered to me right today was getting to breakfast because I barely ate any of that strange meat for dinner. My stomach was growling.
I zipped up my overflowing pack. I only took a few shirts and my toiletries but still the bag was too small for a getaway. I headed down the stairs and turned the corner to the alley toward door two for breakfast. I was startled when I heard a quiet "Hello" from behind in the alley. I turned to find a woman who introduced herself as Valentina. She was striking with turquoise eyes and her long black hair. She was all done up with dark eye makeup, gold jewelry on every possible place along with a sparkling nose ring. She looked like a beautiful Indian princess. I looked down at my blue elephant pants and side braid, feeling a little underdressed. I learned along the trip that she was always dressed to the nines, no matter what the occasion.

We sat down for breakfast and were served one egg and two tiny waffles. She began to tell me she was from Florence, Italy but her mother was from India and her father lived in Africa. She spoke so eloquently and in very good English. She asked a lot of questions and as I spoke, she raised her hand and said, "You talk too fast. I'm not very good with English."

It's always interesting to talk to people when English is their second or third language because you must speak very slowly and avoid slang. You must really make the effort to simplify your sentences and descriptions. Simplifying my words didn't bother me at all and I was fascinated by her beautiful Italian accent. When she described her one and only trip to The US, she made Idaho sound so eloquent. She used her hands a lot when she spoke and told me that she was so impressed with how the people in the US were so friendly to strangers during her time there. "They all say hello when you pass them!" She said shocked. "Whether passing on the sidewalk, a hiking trail or at a store they greet you." She said in Florence no one has time to say hello to strangers. They are always in a hurry. She asked me why I decided to come to Cambodia, and I told her that every year I pick a different country and backpack alone. This was the first year that I decided to incorporate a volunteer trip. She nodded her head with a smile and said she has traveled all over the world as well. We talked about the project over breakfast and found out we both were signed up for the same Khmer Project so it would be just the two of us traveling to Siem Reap with Sython today. There wasn't much food served at breakfast so I was still hungry but hopeful I could fill up at lunch.

I looked at the clock and it was close to seven-thirty and Sython would arrive soon, so I told Valentina I was going to run up to my room and grab my bag. She reminded me to bring a sweater for the temples we would be touring. No shoulders can be exposed; I had a flashback of my previous trip to Rome. In line, I was ushered away for having my arms and legs exposed. I raced around the surrounding shops to hunt down clothing to cover my body. I sweat the entire way up the 491 steps at the Sistine Chapel. I would not make that mistake again this trip.

I tried to shove the sweater and hat in my bag with no luck, when Valentina arrived at my bedroom door. I turned to see her huge rolling suitcase beside her. "You're taking that?" I asked in shock. "I only have one bag; I told Sython I would have to bring my entire suitcase." I looked at my little pack and back at her bag. She wheeled her bag over to me, "Here, you want to put some of your things in my bag? You could fit the entire bag in here!" she laughed as she opened her massive suitcase. I threw a few of my clothes inside so I could actually zip my pack before we headed downstairs to meet Sython.

Sython was late and once he arrived, he turned to Valentina and asked in shock, "You're bringing that?!" Valentina grew frustrated and repeated it was the only bag she had. Sython shook his head and hailed down a tuk-tuk. The driver heaved Valentina's bag onto the front of the bike and all three of us climbed in the carriage.

On the way to the bus station Sython explained why he was late. "All Cambodians always late. If we say eight in the morning, we arrive eight-thirty." Valentina and I laughed, and he continued, "No, no it true. If school start at seven in the morning, it really starts at seven-thirty. Bus today supposed to leave at eight o'clock and every time I bring volunteers we arrive before eight. Bus never on time, always arrive eight-thirty so I go there until after eight now." He said he had a Volunteer from New York City who was a professor and was very strict with his students. His face grew serious as he imitated what the professor would say to his class, "If you are five minutes late, you are late! If you are one minute late, you are still late!" He shook his head and continued, "In Cambodia, you are never late."
We arrived at the bus station and he was right. We sat around for a long time before the bus arrived. Once it pulled up and he heaved Valentina's large bag beneath, we climbed up to the second level to our seats. Sython told us the bus ride would be six to seven hours. I didn't mind as the bus pulled away and led us out of the city and through the countryside of Cambodia.

We drove along the Tonle Sap River known as Great Lake. "Tonle" meaning "Large freshwater river." The Tonle River is the largest freshwater lake and river in Southeast Asia. We took one road all the way to Siem Reap along this river, passing home after home raised on stilts above the water. Every home looked different from the next, poorly built, barely above the ever-changing height of the river. Some homes were so tiny that you could barely believe families could fit inside. Many had just a rickety ladder leading to a square house with one or two open windows. For five hours we drove along this bumpy, dirt road and I stared in awe at every single house. I couldn't believe what my eyes were seeing. Just a few days ago I was in a completely different place. Today each house had extremely thin cattle, at least one to three white cows grazing in the yards. I watched little children climbing the ladders into their one room houses or playing in the water that sometimes led all the way up to their front door.

Most homes had food stands, beer and toiletries for sale in the hope that travelers along the river would stop. There were no cars in the driveways, but some had bikes. Our bus stopped every fifteen minutes or so, picking up someone who needed to hop on and off along the way. As we were further out of Phnom Penh, some of the house had extravagant stairs instead of ladders but still leading to the rickety wooden structures.

Riding along the road to Siem Reap, staring out at all the unfamiliar scenery I got lost. I realized for six hours I got to do absolutely nothing, and I suddenly didn't mind the length of the trip. I didn't have to think about work, I didn't have to think about tasks to complete, errands to run. I didn't have to think of anything to plan or orchestrate. All I had to do was look out the window for the next six hours and it was such a great break. I could think about all the things I hadn't had time to think about. I could fill my mind with so many more positive thoughts because I didn't have any other obligations or responsibilities. How often do we all ever get to do that anyway?

Around two o'clock I was growing weak because I was so hungry. I didn't want to be rude and ask when we were pulling off for lunch, but I hadn't had much food in the past two days and was famished. Valentina was trying to talk to me, but I was becoming a mute and just nodding at anything she said. I didn't realize the bus would be stopping for anyone who waves so they could hop on, along the dirt road.
Finally, the bus pulled off to a huge canopy with vendors selling food. I bought a dim som and bottle of water until Sython found me and pulled me over to where we would eat. A variety of meat lay across the table and was protected by a glass, but not from flies. He pointed with excitement at the different options. "Bamboo noodles or Lemongrass chicken?!" Valentina shook her head and said she must eat light and I glanced back at the arrangement of odd meat in front of me as my stomach turned. I had to eat, so just told Sython to order me whatever he does. He clapped his hands with excitement and said, "Great! I order us both and we share!" We sat down and I bit into my dim som as Valentina studied my reaction. By the look on my face, I think she was glad she declined. I decided to move on to the bamboo and dished out some white rice. I took my first bite and restrained myself from gagging. All the food in Cambodia had such strong, sour odd flavors that I just could not adjust to it. I tried the lemon grass with no luck either. Sython smiled at Valentina and asked, "You try?" She held up her hand and shook her head, "No, I do not like the food, I will stick to vegetables." I was glad she was being more of a princess than me, but it didn't make me feel any better that I was running on fumes. I stared back down at my plate. I was starving but could not stomach the taste of this strange meat and the odd flavors. My hunger slowly subsided and I forced down a few more bites of the rice to get me to dinner. Even the rice had an odd taste.

Sython asked us if we had tried baby duck eggs and I shook my head no. Valentina told him she had tried and was disgusted when she uncovered feathers in her bite. He laughed and said, "Awe, you do not even notice." He asked me if I had tried a few other things like snake and frog and I shook my head no. He said "In Cambodia, we eat anything. We always joke that if white man kill an animal, he waste half of it by throwing away. We eat every piece. The liver, the heart, the ears, eyeballs-delicious!"
Valentina and I laughed, this was true. I certainly do not eat any of those parts and never will.

Sython asked if we needed to use the bathroom before we got on the bus. I asked how much longer since we were already approaching five hours. "Travel time not based on hours, based on kilometers. Too many factors to consider on road. We have another 150 kilometers to go."

Valentina and I went to the restroom, which were little stalls with holes in the floor. I walked in and stepped in a pool of water which I'm pretty certain was urine. I quickly used the bathroom and then picked up the small cup and scooped the water into the toilet. I walked out of the bathroom and Valentina seemed distressed. "I stepped in urine! I must get it off the bottom of my pants!" I couldn't help but laugh. I had stepped in it too but was so delirious from not having meat- I suddenly didn't care about a little urine. I just wanted to get to Siem Reap and go to dinner.

On the remaining bus ride, Valentina and I got to know each other much better. She is thirty-eight so we were not that far off in age. We got along so easily, talking about our boyfriends and work. She is an administrator at a University in Florence. I just adored her Italian accent and was glad that we had signed up the same week as me for the project. Three and a half hours later, we finally pulled into a busy city. I was beginning to almost believe there was no end to this dirt road into no-where but after eight and a half hours, we arrived.

The bus released the door and I was one of the first people out. We had to walk through puddles of water, along with Valentina's rolling suitcase to reach a tuk-tuk. Sython directed the driver to our guesthouse. We arrived and I listened to him speak Khmer to the host. The host and Sython were speaking in a different language but I could tell the tone seemed like maybe Sython was upset. I wondered if they didn't have enough rooms, I listened more closely and watched the host hold up two fingers and Sython replied "Bat". I thought back to my language app section for "yes" and "no." They were "Bat" and "Te." I remember training myself to code bat with yes because they both had three letters. The host replied with "Bat," and I sighed with relief. He welcomed us into the hotel, handed Valentina and I a big wooden key with 006 on the front and then another key to Sython. Sython told us dinner would be at 6:30pm and we would meet in the lobby.

Valentina and I settled into our room and began unpacking. She grabbed my arm and said sternly, "We must find a way out of this dinner! I am starving and want to eat at a nice restaurant. I cannot stomach the food we are served anymore." I was onboard. I told her, I too was starving and if I didn't get some meat soon, I was going to shut down. We both laughed and I came up with a plan. I told her we would shower, get ready for dinner but act really full and just order salads. Then after dinner we would split from Sython and say we're going to the night market but really go to a restaurant. She pulled out her Lonely Planet guidebook and said she already looked up all the nice restaurants in Siem Reap. I was relieved we had a plan and we both were on the same page because I was fading fast.

I headed for the bathroom and was relieved I would finally have hot water for the shower since we were at a hotel. It was apparent instantly that the shower was the entire bathroom. The toilet, sink and shower head were all one big room and the hot water unfortunately, did not work. I walked back into the bedroom to ask Valentina for help. She already had all her beautiful clothes spread across the bed and held up incense and asked, "You don't mind, do you?" "No, I actually would love that but the shower, can you help me?" She came in to show me how to turn on the hot water but ours was officially broken. So, it looked like another cold shower for me today.

It was fun getting ready for dinner with my new roommate. She was stunningly beautiful and wore lots of shiny jewelry, perfumes and makeup. She had bright blue/green eyes and her dark eyeliner made them pop even more as she touched up her makeup before we head out.
Sython waited for us in the lobby and we walked through the busy streets of Siem Reap.

We sat down for dinner and Sython reviewed all his favorite items, while Valentina and I stayed focused on the salad page. "I might just get a nice salad for dinner," I announced. Sython raised an eyebrow, "A salad? But you barely ate lunch." Valentina chimed in, "I may get a salad too, and this mango one looks nice." Sython carried on and we all ordered our meals. During dinner Sython spoke about his girlfriend in Australia and his travels but I was pretty quiet. Going this long without meat was beginning to make me unsocial.

After dinner, we couldn't have dashed any quicker from Sython. We had our own agenda, massage and dinner. We found a massage parlor down the street for twenty dollars. The spa was beautiful, and they presented us with a bamboo tray with hot tea and warm moist towels. They handed me slippers and walked me back to the room.

The massage therapist showed me to the bamboo shower and asked if I would like to rinse off before my massage. I asked if they had hot water and she nodded "Of course!" I climbed into the shower and embraced the large rainfall shower head pouring down hot water. After my shower, I had the best massage with jasmine aromatherapy oils that she rubbed into my skin. After an eight-and-a-half-hour bus ride, this was a perfect treat. The massage concluded; I took my last shower to rinse off all the oils. I walked back out to the lobby to find fresh mango and hot tea waiting in a tray again.
Valentina and I walked down the strip relaxed, ready for our second dinner. I apologized for being so quiet and explained to her this was just me being hungry. She laughed and grabbed my arm, "We will find you some meat Julie."

We perused menus up and down the street until we settled on a beautiful modern restaurant with a patio overlooking the strip. After studying the menu, I placed it down on the table and told Valentina I was ordering the margherita pizza. She gasped, "You have been talking about Beef for the last three hours, you will order the Beef and potato!" I was so hungry I didn't know what I wanted but found it so funny she just met me and did know. We ordered some wine and as soon as our meal was served and my body began to process the nourishment, I came back to life. I began talking fast and with excitement, Valentina and I laughed at the difference food made for my social skills.

Throughout our little night out, I learned a lot about Valentina. She opened about why she couldn't eat heavy foods, ate mainly vegetables and could only have one glass of wine. She suffered from a disease. She was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis only two years ago at thirty-six years old. Her muscles do not work properly, and she has trouble digesting because her stomach muscles are affected. She opened to me about how she discovered she developed this disease and that she was losing her sight and feeling very weak often. The treatment she had to take made her so ill, she decided to stop. Her story just broke my heart to hear all these horrible problems happening to her at such a young age. She was so beautiful and vibrant and while she spoke about her illness that brightness in her began to fade. I reminded her of what I always do whenever I'm in any scenario where things are not fair. Try to think of what would be worse and there is always a positive in everything. She agreed but it didn't make me feel any better for her. I would have never guessed that she was struggling or had such a horrible thing happen. As of right now though her symptoms have subsided.

I guess that goes to show you when you meet anyone, you never know their full story. You must be careful to not be envious of others and just focus on being grateful for what you have. I was just grateful to meet her. I was learning so much from her already and was truly moved to hear of the strength and will she does possess, to not give up on her travel or her love life or career. She is remarkable.

We wrapped up our dinner and took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel where Sython had patiently waited for our return. So, day two in Cambodia and I again, continue to be moved and inspired. Everywhere I go, I feel like I have been fortunate to come across remarkable people. I just need to remember to pack some beef.