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I woke up in the middle of the night to a dark room, I could not recognize. Half asleep, I couldn't figure out where I was. All this traveling was beginning to play tricks on my mind. Once I looked over at Valentina asleep on the bed next to mine, the panic slipped away, and I closed my eyes.
I woke up the next morning to Valentina tracing her eyes with dark eyeliner while she explained we had thirty minutes until we had to leave. I quickly slipped on my clothes, braided my hair and grabbed my day pack before heading out the door.
Sython waited for us in the lobby and all of three of us jumped in a tuk-tuk. He explained on the ride that we would be touring the temples today. The tuk-tuk carried us through the busy streets and out into the country where the gates opened to Angkor World Heritage Center. We climbed out of the tuk-tuk and Sython waved us over to collect our tour passes. We stood in a long line as the sun beat down at only nine o'clock in the morning. Once we reached the ticket counter, the clerk shifted my body and snapped my picture, before moving me along. I turned to Sython confused and he explained all day passes require a photo on your ticket. They check the ticket and photo before entering each temple.
After our tickets were printed, Sython waved to our tuk-tuk driver to retrieve us. We drove along the countryside's dirt path, passing a large pond and old stone temples. The tuk-tuk came to a stop in front of a restaurant covered with a wooden roof. I reviewed the menu and settled on the ham and cheese omelet. I needed to recharge if we were going to be touring all day. As we ate breakfast, Sython began to tell us the history of Cambodia. He talked about when the country of Cambodia was triple in size. He traced his finger along a map on his phone to demonstrate all the land that used to belong to Cambodia where Thailand, Laos and parts of Vietnam all now lie. He also told us Siem Reap used to be the capital of Cambodia before moving it to Phnom Penh.
Sython explained that Angkor is one of the most important sites in South-East Asia, stretching over two hundred square miles. Angkor Park contains the remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire. They include the famous Temple of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the Bayon Temples. I was elated to tour all these today.
Sython and Valentina finished their breakfast, but I made sure to eat every piece of my ham. We were in a very touristy area, so the breakfast was more of a traditional American omelet. I didn't know if I would be so lucky later so wanted to fill up.
Sython left to buy us a few bottles of water and a little boy approached me holding postcards in front of his face. "You buy?" I told him no thank you, but before I could finish my sentence he asked again, "Ten post cards for 4000 Riel." I shook my head no again. He pushed relentlessly as he followed me to the tuk-tuk. "Come on, ten cards for only 4000 Riel!" I shook my head and said, "I only want one, can I just buy one card?" He smiled, "Sure, you buy one and I give you nine free...for 4000 Riel!" A smirk grew on my face, "You're a good businessman, you know that?" as I handed the money over. I was a bit sad to see so many children in Cambodia working and already hustling in the markets and restaurants. Even our server for breakfast was a thirteen-year-old girl. They just seemed too young to have that sort of responsibility.
Our tuk-tuk driver waited for us in front of the restaurant. Sython paid him for the full day, so he would be dropping us at each stop. We climbed in and headed toward the first temple. The park was very spread out, so each temple took time in the tuk-tuk to reach.
During the drive, I asked Valentina about the meaning behind the jewel she wore in between her eyes. I knew that it was part of her culture, but I was curious. "I wear for two reasons. One for decoration, they are very beautiful! I also wear as part of my religion; we call it the third eye. It's all part of Chakra- but you know all about that already since Yoga is so big in the United States." I shook my head, "No, I go to yoga, but what is Chakra?" If Valentina could have stopped the tuk-tuk, she would have. She was dismayed by my lack of knowledge. "You practice yoga and they do not review Chakra with you?!" I shook my head no again and she raised her hands in the air as she spoke, "That is like eating pizza with no tomatoes!!" I laughed and she explained that there are seven energy points over your body, known as the seven chakras, that help us remain balanced. The chakras begin at the base of the spine and finish at the top of the head." As we drove down the dirt path to the temple, Valentina grew very serious as she explained each meaning. "The first is the root chakra, located at the base of the spine. This center holds the needs for survival and security. The second chakra is the belly." She explained, as she pointed to her belly and spoke slowly to ensure I was grasping her important descriptions. "This center holds the needs for sexuality, creativity and intuition. The third chakra is the solar plexus chakra. It is below the breastbone in the center behind the stomach. The third chakra is the center of personal power, passions, anger and strength. The fourth chakra is the heart chakra." She said while grabbing her chest. "This is the center for love, compassion and spirituality. The fifth chakra is the throat chakra. It is communication, sound, and expression of creativity. The sixth chakra, my favorite, is the third eye chakra. This is the center for psychic ability and higher intuition. The seventh chakra is the crown chakra. It is located on the top of your head. It is the center of spirituality and enlightenment. All of these are so important for you to understand for yoga. Otherwise it's just like going to the gym and not practicing true yoga." She was right; I had always gone to yoga for a workout and to clear my head. I guess the true meaning sort of got lost once it trickled over to us in America. I am sure there are many studios that educate and practice this more appropriately. However, most places I go to may do an Om chant before, but that's the full extent of it.
Our tuk-tuk came to a stop at the first temple, Prasat Ta Prohm. Scenes from Angelina Jolie's movie, "Tomb Raider" were filmed in this location. Approaching the tall stone structures, surrounded by jungles, I was awe struck. The temples were so old, crumbling apart and dusted with bright lime green moss. Winding, thick, curvy trees were growing in and out of the ruins. We walked through the entry way and into the court yards, admiring the stone statues and passages. Scriptures and images were written into the stone throughout the entire temple. This was a great place to get lost, even better place to fly twenty-five hours to reach. I've been to temples in Thailand, but I have never seen anything like this.
We climbed back in our tuk-tuk and he drove us down a path opening to a gate with a large face on top staring back at us. Sython hopped out of the tuk-tuk and drew a big square in the dirt with a stick before he spoke, "Angkor Thom is 3km squared. It holds nine temples," as he marked X's in the dirt where they stood. "We will tour Prasat Bayon and Prasat Baphoun." He went on to tell us more history and that no men with missing pointer fingers were permitted to enter Angkor Thom. They were forbidden because when you were a thief and caught, they would cut off your first finger as punishment. Before you entered Angkor Thom, if they checked your hands and you were missing a finger, they would not allow you to enter since you have stolen in the past. He checked both of our fingers and we proceeded through the gate.
Walking around these temples was such a gift. I know for most; Cambodia is such an unpopular travel destination choice, but I was so glad I had the chance for my eyes to experience it. Most people were surprised by my selection this year but seeing all these unique structures and imagining the temples once filled a long time ago, was so fascinating to me. Only a few days ago, I was working on my laptop in California and now I was across the world, learning so much from an Italian woman and touring breath-taking temples. It was such an unbelievable experience and to have my eyes catch even a glimpse of it was truly a gift.
We took a break for lunch back at the same restaurant we ate breakfast. The same little girl waited on us, and the same little boy tried to sell me more postcards. Sython, Valentina and I were becoming closer through the course of this trip. We found ourselves in the most interesting conversations and everyone contributing with a perspective or opinion, another reason why I truly love travel. To be driving around tuk-tuks and be in heavy conversations about love or relationships, religion, traditions. Always finding a way to relate. It was so interesting to me that only a few days ago, I did not even know of their existence. Now we were around each other twenty-four hours a day and learning so much from one another.
We crossed over the long bridge to the most famous temple in all of Cambodia, Angkor Wat, Meaning "Temple of cities." This was the most fascinating temple and is the biggest attraction in their country; it's even on their national flag. The walls of temples told story after story through images of kings and the Khmer people. It's easy to get lost within this temple as it loops you around through different courtyards, stone hallways and stairwells.
After eight hours of touring the temples, we found our tuk-tuk waiting for us on the other end of the bridge to depart Angkwor Wat. We drove home and I submitted my request to Sython for an American dinner tonight. Easy to persuade, Sython took us to a modern restaurant a few minutes' walk from our guest house. The menu had every type of food from all different countries, so I ordered the spaghetti and a glass of red wine. The minute I dove into my meal, I decided I found the solution to my problem. I would just need to find places that served more variety; however, those are few and far between in Cambodia. Valentina disagreed of course when she requested, she taste my dish. She said this was not even close to true Italian pasta, but I was just happy to not be eating bamboo or strange meat.
So, another day down in Cambodia and I getting my energy level back up. Being able to explore a city like this upon arriving to Cambodia was a surprise. Bonding with Valentina and Sython was a surprise. I am surprised however that I'm not able to stomach their food, but if that's the only thing- I think I can handle it. Besides in only two weeks, I'll be back at The Patio restaurant in San Diego.
- comments
Dwayne Ham 10 postcards and I didn't get one in the mail yet?? C'mon, you gotta be able to give a shout out from 25 hours away to an avid reader!!