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As the plane flew into Cambodia, I admired all the bright colored roof tops lining the city of Phnom Penh. Teal, orange, purple, red, blue roofs scattered below intertwined with a massive winding river. I had never seen such a vibrant assortment of colors covering hundreds of buildings. The two girls next to me on the flight still had their eyes closed asleep but I was fully rested and excited to start my volunteer program abroad. After three connections, twenty-five hours and seven minutes, I finally reached my destination.
I had forgotten how formal and elegant the experience is on flights to Asia. All the flight attendants were dressed beautifully in form fitting matching emerald skirts and tops. Their hair was tightly pulled back perfectly into French twists, with not a hair out of place. Their flawless skin brushed with bright pink blush and soft lip stick made you wonder if it was a requirement to work for the airline. The interior of the plane was very modern and seemed like every row had their personal own attendant. If I was going to be stuck on a flight for a day, this was the flight to be on. Every seat had a fresh EVA AIR blanket and pillow with slippers waiting. I opened my package and cozied up against the window seat.
The flight flew by quickly since I had taken a Xanax to put me out for the twelve-hour flight to Taipei. The man next to me on the flight nudged me when dinner was served but I'm not even so sure I finished it. I was still very sleepy from the medicine and remember taking a few bites of my plate only to dose off and wake up to a plateless tray. I must have fallen asleep in the middle of my meal. I closed my eyes quickly and was awakened again with a nudge for breakfast. Seven hours had passed already, so I quickly shoveled down my breakfast before I fell asleep again. After another five hours of rest, we landed in Taiwan.
While waiting to deboard the plane, I pulled up the instructions on my phone from the volunteer program. I read the email carefully, "When you arrive to Phnom Penh International Airport, please make your way to the Visa desk. You will apply for an Ordinary Work Visa. Once you collect your Visa and pass through Immigration, look for Mr. Chamreoun. He will be waiting for you at the exit, holding a Projects Abroad sign."
I followed the herd of people on my flight through the airport until I saw the Visa desk. I walked up to the counter and the man took my passport, picture and motioned me to step aside with no instruction. I glanced around at everyone else scattered near the counter, in no particular order. They appeared to be just as confused as I was by the little instruction given.
After a few minutes, my name was called from the counter and they handed my passport back with a Work Visa attached. I walked through Customs and waited at baggage claim for my backpack. I was relieved to see it circling around the conveyor belt. The email from Projects Abroad also said it was very typical for a bag to be delayed one to three days after you arrive. Luckily, I picked up my pack and headed out the exit.
I saw several men holdings signs and scanned all of them for mine. With no luck, I circled around the front as men hassled me to hire them for a taxi. I circled back around to the airport exit and saw a man sitting on a bench with a sign tucked beside him. I inched closer as I saw half of the name Projects Abroad under his leg. He popped his head up and asked "Miss Julie?" I nodded and he introduced himself as Chamy, while leading me to the taxi. He welcomed me to Cambodia as he tossed my pack in the trunk.
The taxi weaved through the busy streets and Chamy began running through the program agenda basics. I found it hard to focus on him as my eyes caught the first glimpse of Cambodia. Passing temples, the tuk-tuks, and markets along the way was very distracting. He paused for a minute and pulled out his cell phone and handed it to me. "Julie, my apologies. Would you like to phone your family and let them know you've arrived safely?" I looked at the time. It was already one o'clock in the morning in Ohio. I figured a late phone call from an unknown number would only worry my parents. My parents were already worried with me being here, so I didn't want to worry them more. I thanked Chamy but told him I would email once I arrived at the volunteer house. He nodded and continued with the project agenda.
This was such a different experience than what I had been used to in previous trips abroad. On all the other trips it was: Arriving to a country, losing my bag, getting lost enroute to my hostel with no directions, no agenda and no plan. To step off a flight, be taxied and offered to place a phone call home --this was much different than what I was used to.
I had memorized on the flight, "Chhom reap suor" for "Hello." I practiced the greeting in Khmer on Chamy. He showed me how to bow your head to pay respect as you said hello to elders. "Lea sen hauy" for "Goodbye" I announced proudly. He interrupted me to tell me he was impressed. I opened my phone to demonstrate the Cambodian language App I had downloaded and practiced on my flight. I recited all the basics and throughout the remaining drive, he helped correct my Khmer.
We arrived at the four-story volunteer house which was tucked between busy alleys. The old brick home was surrounded by an iron gate. Once we reached the front door, Chamy removed his shoes before entering and I followed his lead. I placed my sandals by the mound of flip flops by the door.
We walked in and the very small living room was packed with people sitting around as Chamy introduced me to all the volunteers. He proceeded to give me a tour. Walking me through the kitchen, he introduced me to our cooks. He explained at what hour the meals are served and led me through the back door down a narrow alley with several doors labeled with numbers. "All meals are served in the dining room except for breakfast. Breakfast is room number two this way." After running through the hours of breakfast he pointed to where volunteers can store other food if they wish.
He guided me back through the alley, into the main home. "Now, let's go see your room!" We climbed the three flights of stairs to room number three. He pulled a large key ring out of his pocket and turned the door open. As he handed me the ring of keys, he instructed me that only one key works for my bedroom. I counted through the six keys on the ring, all different shapes and sizes. He went on to tell me "All other keys you do not need, just the long gold key." They all looked the same to me so I wondered how I would be able to keep that straight every day as I shoved it in my purse.
Three beds lined the walls in the room and two girls popped off their beds with excitement to introduce themselves. Brooke shook my hand and smiled as she welcomed me to the program. Next, Lily walked over and introduced herself asking where I was coming from. I told them both California and they lit up. Chamy showed me to my bed by the window overlooking the alleyway. I don't know how I got lucky to have a view and even luckier to have met such sweet roommates upon arriving. Chamy showed me around the bedroom, where a safe lock box hung on the wall for my passport and belongings. We all shared an armoire and a bathroom connected to our bedroom. I tossed my pack down and Chamy took me one more level up to the roof top. Orange tile lined the large open rooftop. Balconies of other houses rest up against both sides of the large rooftop. The neighboring houses looked like they went on for miles all practically connected. I was excited to have this little rooftop escape to do my writing.
Chamy led me back down the stairs and told me that my Project Coordinator Sython would meet me in the downstairs at six o'clock to review my agenda for the next two weeks. He told me dinner was at seven o'clock and to feel free to relax until then. I climbed the staircase back up to my room to unpack and get settled in. When I opened my door, the two girls were so warm and friendly toward me immediately. They have both been here for weeks and were teaching English to elementary students. Brooke went on to tell me she was from Australia and Lily was from England. They were incredibly nice and showed me around the room and informed me we were one of the only two rooms in the whole house with air conditioning. The house was very old and the toilet in the bathroom didn't even have a seat, but I would trade a toilet for air conditioning in Asia any day.
The girls filled me in on their plans tonight to see a movie and grab a few drinks. They asked if I wanted to join them. I smiled, nodded in agreement and shook my head as I unpacked my bag. Here I had been in Cambodia for five minutes and I already had plans on a Friday night. This trip was already turning into a wonderful experience.
Brooke told me they needed to run to the store, and I asked if I could join. I had a few hours before meeting with Sython, so was anxious to see the streets of Phnom Penh. They both nodded and led me through the busy streets to the store. Lily told me on the walk that she was glad we both were in her room because her first week working, she had two French roommates who never spoke in English. She was very lonely at the start and then when they moved out Brooke made a room transfer so she could capitalize on the air conditioning. They gave me the scoop on what to do for the rest of the day since they both were leaving for work in an hour. They had to teach for the rest of the afternoon. We stopped at the corner market to buy water and all I had was a twenty bill in American dollars. The clerk could not break it. With no hesitation, Brooke and Lily pulled out money and paid for me. I couldn't believe I only just arrived, and they were so kind to help me.
On the way back to the house they explained that all vendors take American Dollars, but few have change. They taught me that one American Dollar is equivalent CR 4000 Cambodian Riel. They told me to never pay more than two American Dollars for a tuk-tuk cab ride. We arrived back to the bedroom and Brooke got ready for work. She turned to me with a concerned look and after I asked her what was wrong, she said she felt awful to leave me all alone. Before I could explain I would be just fine, she rummaged through her belongings and handed me a Women's Fitness and Cosmo magazine. "Here are some magazines and oh, some snacks in case you get hungry!" I couldn't believe they were so kind to me and just met me. I thanked Brooke and reached in my bag to repay her for the water, but she held up my hand and said "No, save your singles for tuk-tuks. You'll need them, trust me," before she slid out the door.
I turned to Lily sitting in her bed, writing out instructions on how to get to the market for me. She handed me a list of what to say and how much to pay with our return address to the house. "Go to the Russian Market" she instructed as she rattled off all the things I would find. "Remember to never pay more than two dollars for a tuk-tuk!" She closed the door behind her and left for work as well.
I finished unpacking in my new room. I crawled onto my bed and looked out the window into the alley. I couldn't believe I left San Diego Wednesday night and now it was already Friday. I hung up all my clothes and locked my passport in the safe box before heading out on my own to explore.
I followed Lily's instructions, turning two lefts until reaching the busy streets. As promised, she informed me tuk-tuks would just push to take me. Several did and hassled me for different prices, but I stuck with her advice and said "Russian Market" while holding up two fingers until one driver agreed.
The streets in Cambodia are pure chaos. There's no order, no street signs that anyone abides by, and seemed overall very dangerous. There were just swarms and swarms of motorcycles, scooters and tuk-tuks floating down a general direction. My driver weaved in and out of incoming traffic driving down the busy streets. People sat sideways on the backs of motorcycles, most with no helmets and the smell of gasoline bombarded my nostrils. Every street was lined with random items for sale covering every inch of the store front leading to the edge of the sidewalk. Medical IV's, bed pans, wheelchairs, miscellaneous medical equipment, vacuums, stainless steel kitchen sinks for restaurants all overflowing from the stores for sale on the streets. Their storefronts were as unorganized as their flow of traffic.
My driver slowed down to a stop and waved me off as he said, "Russian Market." I handed him two dollars as I walked into what appeared to be madness. Street after street were lined with automotive parts, chainsaws, tires and drills for sale. Ropes held an abundance of each part on display. I walked further down the street as motorists barely missed my toes driving right beside my body. There were hundreds of people walking along but all I could see were miscellaneous parts store after store, I was beginning to think my roommate thought I was in the market for a new chainsaw. I turned onto another block as I got harassed for a tuk-tuk ride over and over by drivers. Surely, this couldn't be the Russian Market.
I retraced my steps and made my way back to where I was originally dropped off. I turned right this time instead of left and was in search of this so-called market. Passing a store with odd looking meat on the grill, I saw an alley that looked like an opening into a hallway of people. I followed the opening and stumbled into a huge dark market filled with food, clothes, trinkets and anything you can possibly imagine being sold such as automotive parts and pieces. Each turn through this dark market, led to another vendor making fresh dumplings and noodles or t-shirts, jewelry, scarves and designer wallets. Every vendor stand, inches away from the next with men, women and children asking what they could sell you. I decided to take a minute and shop aimlessly around for souvenirs.
It was so hot in the stuffy dark market that I began dripping in sweat, weaving through the narrow halls of people. I shopped around for a while, picked out a pair of elephant pants and a gift for my boyfriend. After a short amount of time, I began to feel nauseous. The overwhelming blend of smells from each vendor selling fish, pork, and odd meat was beginning to be the only thing I could think about. I started to feel sick and decided it was time to head home.
I hailed down a tuk-tuk and crossed my fingers as the driver weaved through the chaotic traffic to drive me home. It was astonishing to see how many people use motorcycles as transportation instead of cars. We only passed a few actual cars along the way. The things they carry on the motorcycles was crazy to me as well. Any item they can somehow strap to the bike, they will. I passed motorists with mattresses, boxes of fruit and vegetables. One woman had a huge clear bin of meat packed to the top that she held as the man in front of her zipped in and out of traffic. I passed motorists with an extra rack on their bike made from wooden slabs to carry whatever it is they need to transport. It was such a different view then driving down the Five in California. It makes you appreciate those days you complain when there's just a little bit of traffic back home. Really, we should be thankful we have order and a system that works where people feel safe to drive or cross the road.
My driver pulled back up to the house and I quickly removed my shoes and placed them by the door before entering. No one was home so I headed up to the roof to write. After an hour of getting lost in my keyboard, a woman came up calling my name. She told me that Sython had arrived early. I climbed down the four levels to meet him and he introduced himself. He thanked me for joining the program and reviewed the agenda. Tomorrow morning at seven- thirty, he would be back to pick me up for my first day of work. We would be going to Siem Reap, a six to seven-hour bus ride. He instructed me to pack a bag for three days and that we would return to the house on Tuesday afternoon.
I headed back up to the roof until it was time for dinner. It was beginning to get a little breezier and much more comfortable as nighttime grew nearer. With thirty minutes before dinner, I jumped into the shower which I found out from my roommates is always cold water and BYOT (Bring your own towel). I turned to my roommates and said I would have to improvise, as I scanned the room. I grabbed the sheet off my bed and headed for the shower. They laughed at me as I walked out of the bathroom wrapped up in my sheet. I dried off the best I could and got dressed for dinner.
The three of us headed downstairs to meet the other roommates. The cooks set the food out at exactly seven o'clock, so the girls said its best to be on time. There were eight volunteers at dinner tonight. The house normally holds up to sixty volunteers but supposedly a big group just departed. A huge gray pot rest in the middle of the table filled with white rice. A few bowls of meat and vegetables surrounded the pot. Brooke grabbed me a plate and silverware and Lily grabbed me a glass of water and set all my utensils in front of me. I found them so sweet to look after me since I was still trying to find my way around the house and kitchen.
The food was very minimal. There was not a large quantity and some of the meat, well, I was a little nervous to eat. I figured when we went out later tonight, I would have to eat more. After dinner, we headed outside and flagged down a tuk-tuk. Lily and Brooke took me to a night market in Riverside. We got to know each other more while walking through the market and trying on hats and clothes. I found a hat for my trip tomorrow for Siem Reap.
After our little shopping trip, we walked down to a bar outside and ordered three Angkor beers. I toasted to Lily and Brooke and told them I was fortunate to meet them on my first day. They were so savvy around the city, with transportation, markets and were incredibly kind to me being so new. My stomach was still growling, so I put in an order of chicken spring rolls to compliment my first Cambodian beer.
The waiter came back to announce the movie was about to begin. Brooke had selected this restaurant because they had a cheap theater upstairs that plays the history of Cambodia for only three dollars. We gathered our beers and food and climbed a rickety staircase to a small old movie theater. There were only two other people in the whole theater other than us. The lights dimmed and that's when my eyes did as well. I woke up to music playing with the credits rolling. I guess my twenty-five hours of travel finally caught up to me. The girls told me they saw I had fallen asleep, but knew I was exhausted so just let me rest.
So that's my first day in Cambodia. Markets, tuk-tuks, new roommates, a cold shower and a movie. I am always amazed how people you just meet can be so kind. These girls truly touched me today as they took care of me and genuinely wanted to ensure I was okay throughout my first day. I'm excited to begin the volunteer project tomorrow, start a new adventure and see a different area of Cambodia.
- comments
ashley So proud of you & so glad to have read this and know your doing ok ♡♡ xoxoxo
bonita what a day...or three. Dad and I are reading along.Great writing, by the way. Dad read it twice, once at work. Travel is sooo exciting no matter what happens especially when YOU are writing about it! (And Thank you Ashley for lookin out for our Julie) Be safe! Byeeeeeeee
Breanne So excited for you Julie! I love reading your travel blog every year!
Hambino Great read. This is different than your typically adventures. I look forward to hearing what you learn as a volunteer, and not just a tourist on vacation. Glad you found a lil sumthin for your boyfriend already. It would be a shame to come back empty handed.