Varanasi is a city older than history it is said. It's one of the holiest cities in India. If you die here, you achieve Moksha and escape the endless cycle of reincarnations. Judging by the colour of the Ganges, and the mess of the roads, there are plenty of opportunities to do that...

I'm really glad I came to see India. It's a great adventure travelling on the buses, the trains etc. But, it does get a bit tedious after a while. The noise, the hassle, the people everywhere. I don't like pretending to like places or rather, wanting to like somewhere because it's exotic and interesting. I much, much prefer anywhere in Latin America to here.

I headed to the Dasashwamedh Ghat. It is belived Lord Brahmin created the ghat to welcome the Lord Shiva. Unfortunately, it was all underwater. A slight oversight in my entire reasoning for coming to Varanasi... all the ghats are underwater. Still, there were some people swimming in it. I didn't join them...

A bit disappointed, I made my way through the narrow old city streets and latched onto a family of Israelis also making their way to Manikarnika. This Ghat is where the majority of cremations take place. It's... quite a sight. Whilst navigating the narrow alleyways, lined with Marijuana dealers, you have to dodge dead bodies being carried aloft and clothed on stilts, by their chanting families.

The ghat was a muddy hellhole. We headed for the furnace, it was packed. Luckily, the smell of burning overwhelmed the smell of corps and I guess the river is fast flowing enough thanks to monsoon for no livers or tongues to be bobbing in the water. To be honest, it was just quite overwhelming and in your face.

Now I'm relaxing in my zostel with dodgy wifi. Maybe I'll venture out again but I'm just getting tired of the whole fiasco. You can barely walk 5metres here without people touching you or yelling at you to get your attention. The poverty here is the worst I've ever seen. Varanasi's streets are lined with street kids and bizarrely, the wilfully homeless Sadhus.

India is a complex and confusing place. One that needs to be taken in short energetic bursts. If you're deeply interested in the Hindu history for sure it is worth it. But I'm left wondering really whether it is if you're not.

Alavida!