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After two cups of black coffee and a disappointingly luke warm shower it was time for a pramble around Sucre. Sucre is much more relaxed than La Paz, and is a much smaller, posher place.
The city is brimming with beautiful architecture. It is all neoclassical design, from the later Spanish colonial era, around the 1700s. Sucre has always been a centre of progressive thought in Bolivia, a politically active place thanks to it's population, and due to its wealth, generally more conservative than La Paz.
I decided to simply go for a walk around the city, getting lost in its markets and alleyways. I got a Saltena - a Bolivian empanada for breakfast - in the fascinating local market. Very similar to the San Pedro in Cusco, yet a lot less tourist tat, more empanaderias and a lot of butchers.
I then headed up the hills to the Museum of Indigenous Art. A fascinating museum, home to many collections of weavings by various tribes from the nearby Cordillera de los Frailes. The government here has put a lot of effort into preserving the cultures of the local tribes.
Under the Spanish, and even post-independence, the local tribes were forced into slavery or near-slavery under the encomienda system, where local hacienda/ranch owners basically owned an indigenous workforce. Only the most remote tribes were spared, but even these had their culture threatened by Christian missionaries.
Now, after over a decade of indigenous president Evo Morales's rule, indigenous cultures are thriving again in Bolivia thanks to government attention focused on preserving cultures. Some of the weaving works were utterly phenomenal and it was fascinating seeing the various artefacts of the different tribes, from ancient spoons to ancient slippers.
Sucre is just a beautiful city to wonder in. It isn't perhaps the most riveting of places to go, however, but even so I'm glad I came and checked out this place.
Following my little adventure, I accidentally had a 2 hour nap...
I'm a little conflicted over night buses. I have been able to get out and about today, and I feel like I've pretty much seen what I want to see in Sucre city itself. However, the night bus does leave you a bit spaced out! Fundamentally, they're very hit and miss but pretty much essential if travelling across long distances. You don't want to waste entire days on buses.
Sucre itself is an interesting place. It definitely feels a lot smarter than La Paz, more students and visibly wealthier families. It's also something of a backpacker hub. Because it lacks a 5* attraction, Sucre isn't a staple on the Bolivian gringo trail but because it's the capital, and a very relaxed city at that, it does have the ability to retain travellers. Many of the people at the hostel - mostly Australians, Brazilians and Argentines seem to have been here for weeks. Sucre definitely bucks the trend you expect from a Bolivian metropolis.
Vamos
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