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On the Friday it was up early for our flight to Cusco. Quick breakfast and then it was off to the airport. Another flight with our new fav' airline LAN. To be fair it was basically an easy jet number and after less than an hour of cruising over snow capped mountains it was touch down at altitude. When they're handing out free oxygen at the airport you know your in for an interesting time. Now the lads have experienced altitude but staying at it is another ball game. When walking up the stairs feels like you've run a marathon, it soon became clear that we were in for some hard days at the office. Cusco is over 3000m high. Nothing in England is over 1500. And we call them 'mountains'... Collected our bags and after James 'Guns' Lovett pumped his bag on the roof with a little hep from Luke we headed off to our hotel. There we sat down for our run through of what was coming up over the next few days and we met the man the legend Willburt. He was to be our guide for the trip. He'd been to Machu Picchu over 700 times and climbed most mountains worth climbing in the world without oxygen. Experienced is an understatement and in good hands we were. Had our first sample of Cocoa Leaves, nice, and after our briefing we were ordered to rest and adjust. Nap time! After the nap we headed off into town. Cusco is a really nice place and as we arrived in the town square there was a festival in motion. Great bit of music time. After watching for a while we headed off for some food before stocking up on some last minute gear for the Inca Trail. After that, and worn out from just walking we headed back to bed. The real business was approaching.
On the Saturday we were up at 8 and headed off for the Sacred Vally. Here we got our first taste of an actual Inca ruin. It was an incredible sight with big Will giving us the lowdown on its background. After the stop we went to one of the biggest markets we had seen. If we had been packing more money and a bag with unlimited room we would have cleared the place out. There was some really nice stuff, hand made and real good quality. Just a shame we were on the trip. After the market it was lunch time. The rumours of a buffet were not lies and it was time for the boys to start being paid for being on this trip!!! After a few nice plates of food and around ten deserts the lads went for a coffee. Strong was not the word. We may as well have gone into a BP garage and wrapped our lips around a petrol pump as it was like dynamite. Not wanting to be awake until Argentina the boys quickly replaced the tar with a watered down version. Much less eye watering. After that it was to the hotel in Sacred Vally. That evening and despite still be slightly full from the buffet, the group decided to go for a meal. Another guide suggested a restaurant. In we went and we were seated upstairs. Within ten minute we thought the police had tear gased the place as smoke was everywhere and everyone was crying. We're guessing the ventillation system was broke but for the next hour or so it looked like we were one mighty sad group! All sufficiently stuffed (again) we headed back to the hotel. D day was upon us. It was time to crack out the walking boots and start the Inca!
Sunday moring was bright and early. We had another Inca ruin teaser to start which involved a number of stairs. It was a realisation of things to come. After the tour it was an hour coach ride to the beginning of the trail. The sun was out and there was almost a slightly nervey feeling in the air. We had booked this 7 months before and it was surreal that the moment was finally upon us. We haven't done that many treks but we were about to go on one of the most famous in the world. It felt quality. Had our photo taken at the start and got checked into the trail. That was it. We were off. Day one was to be a more of a gentle one. Some up and down hill action but no climbs. It was hot but already the views were warming up nicely. We were treated to another Inca Ruin and pushed on by the river until lunch. Now we thought food would simply be on a plate and you'd sit on the floor. Oh how we were wrong. Our group was packing over 20 porters, our own chef, assisstant chef and waiter. The porters each carried over 20kg of gear whilst we just carried our water and camera. It was crazy. And oh yeah. They ran it. We set off before them but by the time we had got to our lunch site, they had ran passed us, set up a kitchen and a dining tent (full size so we could all sit round the table), had a bowl for each of us to wash our hands in and had the food ready. Starters and mains. It was beyond ridiculous. One of our porters could run the Inca Trail (what we were doing in 4 days) in 3 and a half hours. To be honest we have never known an athlete to come close. To see the Inca Trail (with altitude to boot) is probably the only way to understand. They are incredible. Making the most of a tastey lunch we were given half hour to chill before heading off to our night campsite. It was another steady walk for the next few hours before arriving at our site. The views of the mountains were incredible. Just looking out the tent door you felt spoilt. After a little bit of chill time we were called for a coffee break. Again in the dining room (the porters had repacked after lunch, ran back passed us and set up before we got there) where apart from tea and coffee we had crackers and jam, some cheese things and popcorn. Not exactly roughing it. We had serviette holders. After our snack is was more chill time before another top notch meal. If anything we were going to put weight on this trek. That night we were treated to an incredible view of the stars. Loads were pointed out to us and a few shooting ones were thrown in to boot. Awesome.
Monday and it was six thirty wake up call. Although a little harsh they did bring us tea and coffee whilst we laid in bed and woke up! Service. After breakfast and getting our first taste of Inca Trail standard toilets we were set for day 2. We had heard a lot about day 2. Mostly that it was a mother f***er. The first 3 to 5 hours depending on how fast you could go were all up hill. And when we say up hill it's like climbing massive stairs constantly. Apparently the trick is to go for ten minutes until you feel like your heart is going to explode, rest for no more than 2 minutes and keep going until you get to the top. In our case a mountain pass towards the 5000m height. Words won't descibe what the first 3 hours of day 2 was like for the lads. If your a pro hiker it was likely to be easier but for us it was the hardest thing we have ever done. Simple. Nothing sporting or endurance wise that we have personally undertaken has mached it. Sheer persistance, will power and our i pods marched us to the top of that b******. Every step was hard work. Not even the porters were running although they were going faster than us! Somthing that has to be done - not explained!! Once at the top and using up their life time quota of swear words the lads were more than spent. We were elated and greated with more stunning views. Always worth it!! From the top it was an hour or so down the other side. Much easier than up and the lads savoured the moment. After many a picture we got back into camp before twelve. The 2 pro hikers were 40 minutes in front of us but no one else was to be seen. Some didn't make it until 3 that afternoon. That's just how hard it was. The rest of the day was to chill. We were physically spent but as ever lost for words at the views that greated us outside our own tent door. Spectacular. Something we thought we'd never see! Apart from more food based banter that day was pretty much it. Our hardest in a long time and only a half one! It was time to rest the feet for Inca day 3.
Tuesday and again it was up at 6 with tea and coffee in bed. Put back on our now ever trusty walking boots (we were glad we splashed the cash in the UK) and got ready for what was our longest day (not harder than day 2) - a 9 to 10 hour walk. First thing it was up to another pass. Today we were actually on a real Inca built trail so it made the walking easier. Stopped off at an Inca Ruin on the way up to our second pass. Will our guide showed us what he was made of as when we were seriously blowing going up hill that man was playing the flute. Commendable when you think a lad on our trip could bust a tune and he nearly passed out sitting down! Different. Walked through some more cracking scenery (it's bad but we're worrying how the hell we're gonna top the scenery we've seen) before arriving at another massive Inca ruin. There we played a bit of keep me up with a bean bag before heading off for lunch. Another great lunch and then it was on for our final 3 to 4 hour hike to camp. Along the was we saw more simply stunning Inca ruins that appeared in the landscape like a painting. You could stare at them all day. We went through Inca built tunnels, saw vally's filled with seas of cloud and simply wondered what Machu Picchu had in store to top it. The walk was wicked. Nothing like we had ever done. After 9 hard worked hours, and 3 pretty intense days we arrived at our final camp. We felt beaten, tired but somewhat jubilant. We were humbled immensley however by our ever outstanding porters who after carrying all our stuff (persoanl stuff too) and ran the thing every day, and had again set up camp before we even arrived clapped us in. What a bunch of guys. For having just undertaking such a gruelling feet as they had i've never seen spirits amongst a team that work together so great. All of them smiled and they were constantly laughing and joking even singing. They probably had to do it all again the next day and it was just another one of those moments where sometimes you need to check your s*** and realise how good you've got it and just be that much more greatful.
That night we sat down for our final meal together. We thanked all the staff that had made the trail a million times easier for us than it should of been and had a few beers. We could feel the finish line at it was good!
The Wednesday it was up at 4. It was time to get our arses to the show piece. About an hour and half trek was ahead before the money shot. We set off and although it was dark everyone was eerily quiet. It was just heads down and on we went. After seeing the sun come up over the mountains we soon arrived at the sun gate. 50 steep steps up a small walk, some more steps and there she was sports fans. Machu Picchu. Like anything that you have seen soo many times in photos it was both amazing and surreal to finally be in front of it. It's as everyone describes and as the pictures all look. Just better. After taking it in from a distance it was time to head down to it. As it got closer and closer it simple became more and more spectacular. One of the things we had been most looking forward to and it was only better than expected. It is also known for being constantly surround by cloud, with it rare as a bear for the vally to be cloudless. However lady luck was in and we could not have had more perfect weather. The bluest, clearest sky we had seen for a while complete with the sun rising high. It was amazing. Took some serious snap shots, had a great tour from our guide and simple spent the next four hours taking it all in. The place is magic and there's not much else you can say. It was the end of the trail and one of our greatest experiences. Worth the wait. Worth the effort. Will never forget it.
Come miday it was time to say goodbye. A bus ride down to the bottom was how it all ended into a little town. There we had a meal before heading off on our train / bus ride home. Everyone was spent and rightly so. We're not pro's and it was not easy! That night we got back to the hotel and decided that it was only right to have a night out. Cusco is a happening party place so off we went. A great meal was had first although the delicacy of guinea pig cannot be recommended. After that it was off for a crazy night on the tiles and to complete our 26 hour day. Huge!!!!!!
That Thursday was not our most productive. We stayed in the hotel for another night and whilst James and Luke did just about manage to get out the room for two hours Chris did an all dayer. We were all wasted. The four day treking had just ripped it from us. A day in bed was more than deserved!
Friday we shifted up our gear and headed over to our hostel Loki. Some guys from our trek were still kicking around which was great. We had had a really good group which we haven't always been blessed with! Friday again was a pretty chilled day. Shopping and internet action was on the cards but we weren't up for much walking. Grabbed a bite to eat with the twins from our group and then went to the hostel bar. Not originally planning a night out, Luke and Chris thought they would give Cusco one more crack with the nightlife and headed out for a couple with one of the lads off our trek who 'wasn't drinking'. Like we said Cusco really is a party place and that's exactly what we done! Crazy!
Saturday 21 June and it was time to say our farewell to Peru. We've had a wicked time here. The Peruvians have been great and the country itself has been stunning. We came to Peru to do Machu Picchu. Along the way we found an awesome country that's packed full of stuff to do. Peru's a great place and soo worth a visit. But Machu Picchu simply was the highlight. Easy!!!!
- comments
Prasad I find it amazing that today, we stgugrle with flooding and weather conditions etc. when the ancient people of Inca had found a way of coping with the problem hundreds of years ago! They should of written a manual to be passed down to property development companies of the 21st century. If only we could cope with weather like they could, it wouldn't have been such a catastophe with our recent heavy snow! I would love to visit the Inca ruins, the history behind it is so interesting.
Avinash I find it amazing that today, we sgrugtle with flooding and weather conditions etc. when the ancient people of Inca had found a way of coping with the problem hundreds of years ago! They should of written a manual to be passed down to property development companies of the 21st century. If only we could cope with weather like they could, it wouldn't have been such a catastophe with our recent heavy snow! I would love to visit the Inca ruins, the history behind it is so interesting.