Sukothai, the first capital of Thailand was finally reached after a last minute sleepless 3rd class night train. Exhausted, figuring out whether I should sleep in New town or Old town was beyond my capabilities. So I picked the closest one to the bus station, anxious to be horizontal again after being awake for 24+ hr. Sukothai (which translates to dawn of happiness) had charm. The streets were busy but not chaotic, it had yet again, a great market where I decided to buy every fruit I didn't know in one day.. made for an interesting snack day, even needed google to make sure I was eating the right parts... After a rest day, I rented a bicycle and headed down the highway to Old town to see the ruins, a UNESCO heritage site. I must admit, after having seen Angkor Wat, it wasn't so impressive, but I still enjoyed cycling around the historical park, having a picnic and Sri Sawai and watching the sunset from Wat Mahathat, my two favourite temples of the day. I was pleased with my stay until 30 minutes before I had to leave when someone stole my shoes!... with my expensive insoles inside them...Frustrated and annoyed I had no choice but to accept. So I went to the bus station for a 14 hour wait for a 7 h bus ride, Chiang Mai bound. My guesthouse gave me false bus info...something tells me they didn't like me. In Chiang Mai I stayed minutes from the Tha Phae gate of the old city walls, a quite soi in the heart of the city just beside the market, couldn't have been in a better location! The city was packed with tourist for the New Year, but it added to the liveliness and diversity that the city has to offer. Four city walls and a moat enclose old town which is full of temples, Eco souvenir shops, massage parlors and vegetarian restaurants! You could really never get bored here with the Saturday street shops, the Sunday walking street, the nightly night bazaar and countless bars that cater to everyone. My most wanted excursion was to the Doi Inthanon National park which unfortunately fell through,, because of miscommunications with the booking office,,, and more miscommunications on how to get there without a tour, oh well I guess. As a backup plan there was an elephant sancutary I wanted to visit, where the elephants were rescued when there habitat was destroyed, mistreated by camps or sick. So I booked it, only to be brought on a different tour, to an elephant camp. It was an ethically challenging day. Elephants who belong in the jungle had less freedom then a cow on a farm. Most of the time they were shackled by the ankle with a 4m diameter space to 'roam'. Tourist were brought to the camps to ride them and learn how to 'train' an elephant. We gave them bananas and sugar cane as a snack before we learned some basic words to direct the elephant. We then went down to the river to bath them, which was the only time I think the elephants might enjoy in their lives at the camp. I sat at the restaurant for most of the day. When we did go to the river I was paired with an elephant and her baby and a mahout that did not hit either. Pythoon the elephant ate all she wanted, when she wanted and did not have to perform any tricks when bathing. It was an experience, just not the one I was looking for. My mood improved after meeting up at the guesthouse for a great new years eve. A small messy gathering, with lantern lighting, great company and lots of food. Couldn't have asked for more.