Greetings all. We're loving the messages, they make us laugh and although it's only been a week it feels like we've been away for ages. Keep 'em coming, and for the sweepstake pundits.... Rik is eating healthy......but beer is 2 quid for 2 litres and a Mojito is only 80 pence! Oh dear.

Chiang Mai is a complete contrast to Bangkok, which is a total relief. Bangkok was a great experience, but we're loving the slow pace around here. The people are incredibly helpful and friendly and I want to bring a few home in our luggage. We found a lovely wee guest house, at 7 quid a night with aircon and camped out there for 3 days.

We went on a Trek on Sunday into the hills and met several of the tribes who live there, including the fascinating Long Neck tribe with the brass rings around the women's necks. They have them placed there from the age of 5 and have a new ring added every birthday, until they reach 22. Ouch. Apparently this is uber attractive to the local lads. After this it was lunch cooked by the staff of the Elephant sanctuary, which was lovely. In fact there hasn't been a single average meal yet. We both then jumped on the back of a huge, pregnant elephant and went for a ride around the jungle. The elephants are incredibly gentle. Our elephant had a good old look at us through her big curly lashed eyes, before we got on, and when our guide wasn't looking, she decided to have a wee cheeky sniff around us with her trunk. The trek continued on and we swam in the river, where Rik dazzled everybody with his amazing white sun reflecting body. Not many pale Scots around here. We then piled onto rafts, after a bumpy open back truck ride up the mountain, and given our 30 second safety briefing (basically involved being told how to go left right backwards and forwards!), before white water rafting back down again. Great fun, and all the way down the river, we saw monks and families swimming and taking every chance to jump the boats and soak all on board. This really is the 'Land of Smiles', and what these people lack is more than matched in good spirit and a genuine pursuit of fun times. Rik decided to jump out the boat and take a swim. The boat didn't wait for him and we all paddled off down the river with Anna laughing her ass off! The day ended with us lying on a 30 foot bamboo flat raft, drifting home under the trees.

On Monday, 24th, we both went on a Downhill Mountain Bike trip, high into a nearby mountain, among the Coffee bean and Banana Tree farms. The guide told us 15% uphill, the rest would be downhill with the standard being okay for person of good fitness and intermediate mountain biking standard. What we actually got was about 35% vertical climbs, and miles of fast and some very steep technical descents.The scenery was incredible, the climbs were lung burning, and the drops exhilarating. All was going well and the group, 10 of us, had formed a natural order of fitness and speed, when suddenly, good times turned bad. On the final descent, Anna broke rank, tore to the front from her 5th place spot, and took off down the mountain leaving all but the guide in her wake. I had hardly the time to say, " That's my girl", when her front wheel went from under her, and the rest is too ugly to print. She has a massive graze on her left arm, hip, and thigh. But worst of all the big shiner she now has on her left eye. Nobody spoke. And when she got her feet the rest of the party to continued on down the hill while, Anna, was given first aid, she didn't make a fuss, and finished the ride in obvious pain. Tough cookie. WE could hear the squeak of the other guys brakes all the way down the hill, as they had now halved their speed after seeing what happened to Anna. She's fine, apart from the black eye and limp. All photographs will now be from her right side.

Must go,

Love to all and keep the messages coming,

Rik & Anna xx