This morning we woke up easily after our early night. A perfect start to the day we enjoyed a delicious breakfast with a number of choices on the rooftop terrace of the hotel, overlooking Kathmandu. The sky was thick with smog so the hills were hidden from us. I had a big hearty bowl of porridge with fruit in it with coffee. Today we had our bearings correct & headed the right way out of the hotel towards the central Durbar Square. Walking, as in many Asian countries, is not easy as you avoid cows wandering the streets, stray mangy dogs, endless scooters & unforgiving cars. Arriving to the historic square we got our tickets & went to see the Kumari (living goddess) who can only leave her house 13 times a year which must be rather dull & boring for a 9 year old. We were lucky enough to get a glimpse of her at the small carved wooden window before she retreated inside again. We found some lunch along the side of the square overlooking a flat market area with stalls selling jewellery & brass souvenirs. We tried momo's- the unofficial national dish- which is like a dim sim or Gyoza. We decided to get a guide to show us around the many temples & buildings scattered around the square- he cost about $6 each. Each temple was intricately carved, some with struts demonstrating different positions in the Kama sutra. We looked inside the old palace, although it was really just a bare courtyard and even received a tikka (red forehead dot) at the temple supposedly built from a single tree. Once we had explored enough of the square area we walked back towards the hotel, stopping to browse the shops along the way. We also visited the Local Woman's Handicraft shop which was started by a courageous young woman who had escaped her village but had encountered other enemies in her quiet fight to help woman. For dinner I tried Thukpa, a Tibetan noodle soup and once again settled for a reasonable early night.