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QUEENSTOWN 12, 13, 14, 15 November.
We packed up and left Fox Glacier on a sunny morning, andbegan o ne of the best scenic routes of the trip, a kind of scenic overload, how many pretty sights can the mind take in??? It would have been a splendid day to do Fox Glacier but we had doen that in the rain and time on this trip waits for no man………
The road criss-crossed rivers, driving over historic bridges, occasionally it hit back on the ocean and then wound inland again.
We drove through rainforest and then wide lush river plains where cattle grazed.
In the rainforest we were ready for a coffee stop, and stopped at a weird café, where the owner had quite a wit, leaving notices all over the place;
“ breakfast served at breakfast time, lunch served at lunchtime, if you’re here for dinner you will
be charges with breaking and entering”.
All the benches in there were covered in old possum skin. He was a keen possum hunter, but as in possum for meat and its fur. Possums over most of NZ, are regarded as a huge pest, they were introduced to kill off the spreading rabbit population but chose to kill easier prey such and birdlife to the extent, they have made some species extinct . So 1080 a poison is widely used to try and
eradicate them. However, this area didn’t put 1080 in traps, and the guy in the café shot possums for their meat and he Mmde possum pies. Apparently its illegal to charge for possum pies so if you
wanted a possum pie you had to donate 4 dollars.
His menu said;
“ Road Kill pies;
Pigeon, Pheasant, Venison…etc……and hunted Possum too or you can have normal
boring pies , Mince, Chicken etc..”
Hmm………..we had coffee and muffins…………..It was a treat to wander around and read all his silly notices.
The only good possum is a dead possum, im afraid and sometimes choices have to be taken, i can understand why NZ doesnt want to loose its wildlife.
The drive covered so many wonderful views, as its followed the river bed of the Haarst River
and upwards to the summit of the Harst Pass.
Up and down and round bends after bend…………… …me saying, “slow down tom!”, which seems to be the main saying of this New Zealand trip…..he doesn’t take much notice I hasten to add, and I find myself as the passenger breaking with my foot on the carpet as you do !!
On route we passed Lake Wanaka.
Off the main highway we took the small er route which took us high over the ranges but came across Cardrona Hotel.....inside was so Anglais !!!
I wasn’t sure what to expect with Queenstown .
Its is pretty and the nicest town we have encountered for prettiness nestled on the lake. It is a busy ski town in winter, and attracts the young, and there are plenty of bars and places to eat. All eateries in this country are very reasonable compared to Europe and Australia and the States.
We were to be in Queenstown for four nights and booked at the Ridges Hotel, with unrivalled views of the Lake.
This was to be the luxury part of the trip. It was a nice hotel and the restaurant had magic views of the lake at night, so we ate in each night, we were tempted to walk along the lake to eat but in all honesty our days were so full on we were both tired and it was much easier to
stay put.
The hotel was annoying in as much as the internet was only available in the bar area, which poor for the quality hotel it was. I heard much consternation from all the Americans who couldn’t believe they had to sit there to get a signal, and they were right as the room rates werent cheap. I had planned to do my Skypeing to the family in Queenstown but couldn’t do it in
front of and army of Americans and Japenese.
Our days were full on. The steamship TSS Earnshaw, was a familiar view every days doing boat trips.
Our first must do though was a Gondola ride up the mountain, it gave then great views all over the town.
We took ourselves from there top on a walk through the forest, or I should say a hike up and up and up….towards Ben Lomond, named by Scottish homesick gold prospectors years ago. I
did have a few moans on route as I was dubious that we had taken a wrong path
as it was very dark and was never ending going upwards, and I was Puffed!!....we finally saw sunlight and came out to a view that made it all worth it.
We were the other side of the mountain and were on the old route of Scottish gold miners who had trod the path to the mines further along. They of course had walked all the way up from Queenstown and not had the help of the gondola!
We walked down to the top of the ski chairs which had left the gondola and come up higher.
Decided to go back down after loitering for ages watching the paragliders leap off the grass to glide over the town.
Afternoon we drove round the mountain to a small gold mining town of Arrowtown, which
was cute with all the old original buildings, wooden, with verandas, but
all now turned into cafes or boutique shops…………
We drove out another day to Glenorchy which was along the lake and at the lakes end…….it felt a bit like worlds end too and the road there on were dirt tracks………we tried to drive along the dirt tracks but as we had a hire car we eventually turned back as we weren’t insured on dirt tracks.
Onwards from Glenorchy was Paradise and this out of the way wilderness was where The Hobbit was filmed and Harry Potter and also Lord of the Rings, and when you see the landscape you can
understand why.
Glenorchy was a small hamlet with a couple of cafes……….i came across a woman with a lamb on a lead called Flick, he was not ever going to be in the stew pot, he was a pet, been hand reared, I found it funny she had gone to the loo and tied him up outside, he baa’d and baa’sand baa’d till he saw here and then wagged his tiny tail!! She told me he loved the car and
jumped straight in if she opened the door , and at home he had his own basket
in the kitchen to sleep in……………I was smitten…..said oh I must tell Aiden!......Plus
I must tell Aiden and Amy, its not just us that have sheep escape as we have
seen plenty on this trip and wondered how on earth have they got out of there!
Going to Glenorchy showed us how life could be quite lonely and harsh on cold winters , it was quite bleak and very cold, with a permanent snow cap on the rugged mountains.
The rest of the stay in Queenstown we mooched around the town, we went off on various track walks and generally walked our socks off and made room for the next batch of coffee and muffins. I seem to have swopped my aching achillies and ankle which is now better to a bad back each evening, I really could do with an overhaul!!
Queenstown attracts lots of youngsters and lots of use that wish we were young again !!
Leaving Queenstown to head south to Fiordland. Our next stop via Te Anau,to Mannapouri, which is our 2 night stop, and the eagerly awaited Doubtfull Sound full day boat trip…….wooo hooo bring it on !
- comments
Linda Godfrey Great blog. What wonderful weather you've had around Queenstown and the lakes. Thanks to your photos, I want to see more of our beautiful country when we go home for good. I don't thing Richard and I will be able to hang up our travelling shoes for quite a while yet!
Bernie Sue, I am following all your blogs with great interest. Can't wait until I eventually retire and can go travelling too. Bernie