Surrounded by white cut stone walls the sun begins to set on Jerusalem. A bike rolls by to my left, almost silently and I look up from the pavement at the black coated figure with matching hat, shaved head, beard and curly side locks disappearing into the distance. It's a reminder that despite the modern similarities, I am far from Australia. Really there is no shortage of such reminders especially when visiting the Old City or market areas from which I am returning.

They provide an eclectic mix of hustle and bustle, trinketry and all manner of sites, smells and sounds with no two trips ever the same. Take this last trip for example, making my way through side alleys of aromatic spices, vegetables, brightly coloured sweets, preserves and more I was relieved to realise I had navigated out of the shoulder to shoulder bartering into the main open area of the biggest souk (market) in Jerusalem. The respite from the crowd was short-lived however, as in pushing free of the masses, I stumbled directly into the path of a short elderly man, again adorning an impressive beard and top hat, though this one had mastered a small silver push scooter too. I braced as I followed his eyes from looking forward at my torso height, up towards my face but he pulled up the front wheel of the scooter in unison and stopped with ease. With a beaming smile he rattled off some incomprehensible Hebrew and in response I coughed up a 'lo hevanti' (I don't understand.. Smile widening, he happily translated for me "How is the air up there". Now I have heard the line more than once or twice but I was expecting some sort of recourse for my carelessness, so I was genuinely laughing at the comment (maybe more at being nearly runover by a ZZ Top member on a scooter). Eitherway, content with the laugh, the guy scooted off into the crowd as quickly as he had arrived.

That seemed to be a lot of writing for not much of a story… maybe you had to be there. Anyway these situations are waiting around every turn of the 'Old City' in Jerusalem, which I have been meaning to write about since visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulture within the city's wall over Easter week. A crazy decision in hind sight but hey, it's not every day you can say you spent Easter at the tomb where it all is meant to have happened all those years ago. That was a truly shoulder to shoulder experience, within the dimly lit halls leading to the holy site, pilgrims from around the globe demonstrated faith in their chosen denominations through various expressions from intricate head coverings, to carrying large ornate crosses in a precarious shuffle, where any person unfortunate enough to trip, would have undoubtedly caused a domino effect and been trampled.

To give you an idea of what I mean by 'no two trips are the same' on one visit to the Old City, the surreally out of place sound of live bagpipes echoed from windows overhead throughout the alleys. On another I was shown a tower where after being denounced, a catholic senior figure had refused to vacate a premises and is now fed by lowering a bucket out of the window of his locked tower... Watched too many Disney movies as a kid if you ask me... On yet another trip I found myself posing as an Austrian to avoid a five shekel fee and climbing to the unique rooftop view of the city from the historical Austrian Hospice with some very friendly Austrians. The old city is a truly unique place and I haven't even touched on its historical significance.

Well I've been lazy and have gotten behind on my stories, next time I'll have to tell you about Tel Aviv and I better fill you in about the food and coffee in these parts at some stage. There are other plans on the Horizon too including Russia but that's another story… Oh I have Identified most of the plants so I'll sit down and name them for ya'll sometime soon. Lehitra'ot Till next time