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Perched on a hill in my section of the Jerusalem Botanic Garden today, I took some time to appreciate the view out over the white stone buildings of the city. As a static but melodic Rwandan folk song crackled its way to my headphones, I was reminded of just how far from ordinary life seems to have gotten these past few years. The song was given to me by a Rwandan refugee who shared both camp and many a story around the coals during my time in Tanzania, stories which included finding snakes waiting in vehicles and other eye opening insights into life during the Tutsi/Hutu conflict of the 90's.
What has this got to do with anything? Well nothing really but I remember being unable to imagine being there and what it would have been like, yet today I find myself in a part of the world synonymous with conflict (though you would never know it from day to day life). Now, I am not likening the two situations by any stretch but it is interesting to think about outward appearances, as opposed to cultural inclinations and complexities in such scenarios.
Anyway ponderings aside, I should offer some factoids for you out there and catch up on what's been happening. Firstly, I mentioned the stone walls of the city that you would all be familiar with from broadcasts back home. It gives an ancient and almost under developed image of the city to the outside world but what is interesting is that being here, everything is very developed and modern but the stone faces create a city of stunning character. What you probably don't know is that the stone appearance is actually dictated by law, any building must be finished with the stone even if just a thin veneer. What is even more interesting is that this law is a remnant from British rule, which has remained much to the aesthetic benefit of the city.
Speaking of buildings, I was at the ruins of some of older and more significant ones this week at Tel Arad where they say that the remains of settlements date to the Chalcolithic period, around 4000 BC though our guide had suggested an even earlier timeframe. This was part of a larger expedition into the Negev Desert to see the last of the spring flora and endemic Irises before the land dries out for summer. It was a great trip and probably the last now for a while, as summer will make it too uncomfortable and bare for much exploration other than in the North where I think I will get in May. That's not to say there won't be plenty more exploration just not out in the desert.
While I am writing of Tel Arad I will give you another fun fact in closing and explain the term 'Tel', in a nutshell. A Tel forms part of the title of many Middle Eastern sites and generally refers to areas where a substantial hill has been created (see photo) by many generations of people living and rebuilding on the same spot. the hills are predominately weathered mud brick but offer up all sorts or archeological finds of past civilisations when excavated.
Well I am feeling pretty weathered myself now so I think I'll call it a night.
Cheers till next time
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