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From Uyuni we travelled to Potosi, the highest city of it´s size on earth apparently, and is now a world heritae site in recognition of its tragic history as a silver mining centre during the time of Spanish colonization. Potosi provided a large share of the silver mined and shipped back to Spain until the early 1800´s when both the supply of silver and world market prices began to decline. Its said the silver taken from Cerro Rico (the rich hill) propped up the Spanish empire for over 30 years.
Working conditions for miners were appalling and the indigenous population was decimated. African slaves were brought in to replace the native workers and it is estimated that as many as 8million indigenous and africans died in the mines during the first three centuries of Spanish colonial rule.
The mines are still being worked today in very harsh conditions.
Five of us took the opportunity to go to the mine, on the way we bought snacks, drinks, cigarettes and .... dynamite and deternators (about a pound a stick!!!) to take to the miners that we might see.
I found our visit very distressing... boys as young as 14 are still working in mines today. We came across two 17 year olds who were shovelling the coal like mineral into a wagon. Each wagon takes a ton and they excavate by hand 20 tons per day. It was hot and dark in the mine, only lit by the torch on your hat. The boys let us dig to see how hard it was and then they let us push the wagon to the surface. It wa incredibly difficult. Every where in the labyrinth of tunnels were Devil effergies. The miners give alcohol to the statues in recognition that they are working in the devils world and hope that he will be happy and keep them safe. At least 4 major accidents happen every month here with over 20,000 people working in the mines each day. We saw shafts going deep into the ground with just 2 small torch lights so far below, We lowered some of our gifts to those guys on a rope.
If you want to see for yourself, try and get hold of the film The Devils Mine a documentary about 2 boys who work there .... you need to be brave to watch it though!
Our guide, a woman told me her brother works in the mine, he is 42 and has never done anything else, they work 7 days a week usually. His sons will work there to. Life expectancy is about 45 because their lungs as so badly affected by the dust. To use a mask would slow down your work productivity. When I think of all I have done just in the last few weeks compared to his life I feel very very blessed. I was deeply affected by this town and its people.
God bless Potosi
- comments
Rose Hi Anne, Great to hear from you again. I was only saying to Sarah tonight, when we were out reccying one of her Emsworth to Basingstoke relay routes, that I hadn't heard from you in ages. Hear you are back in good old Blighty next week, that will be a bit of a come down from your exciting travels. Will be good to see you again. Take care. Rose x
laurie spicer HI Anne, wow... makes me think how lucky we are. Hope you enjoy the rest of your trip.. cant wait to see you and catch up. lots of love to you!! xxx Laurie
Ian Mmm, clearly He hasn’t blessed Potosi . Actually the film you refer to is “The Devil’s Miner” and you’re right, it’s an extremely distressing film...as I so often say “who ever could forgive the way in which we treat the world in which we live...” unfortunately, one of my most oft used quotes. Certainly however something we could all do with keeping in mind before we grizzle about how hard life is these days. Travel safely Anne; excited to see you soon. Love, Ian x